Sourdough New York Style Bagels

Ingredients

Levain (Build the Night Before)

A small levain built to peak activity for maximum rise and flavor

• 15g (1 tbsp) Active sourdough starter
• 75g (⅝ cup) Bread flour
• 75g (5 tbsp) Warm water (80-85°F / 27-29°C)

Final Dough

A stiff, low-hydration dough that creates the signature chewy texture

• 500g (4 cups) Bread flour (12-13% protein minimum)
• 275g (1 cup + 2½ tbsp) Warm water (80-85°F / 27-29°C)
• 150g (⅝ cup) Ripe levain — Use all of the levain you built; the extra 15g covers what stays in the jar
• 12g (2 tsp) Fine sea salt
• 30g (1½ tbsp) Barley malt syrup (or honey)

Boiling Water

The boil is what makes a bagel a bagel

• 3800g (4 quarts) Water
• 30g (1½ tbsp) Barley malt syrup (or honey)
• 15g (1 tbsp) Baking soda

Toppings (Choose Your Own)

Classic options for finishing your bagels

• 30g (3 tbsp) Everything seasoning (sesame, poppy, dried onion, dried garlic, coarse salt) — Choose one topping; quantity coats one batch
• 30g (3½ tbsp) Sesame seeds — Choose one topping; quantity coats one batch
• 30g (3½ tbsp) Poppy seeds — Choose one topping; quantity coats one batch
• 20g (¼ cup) Dried minced onion — Choose one topping; quantity coats one batch
• 15g (1 tbsp) Coarse sea salt — Choose one topping; quantity coats one batch

Total flour: 575g

Hydration: 60.9%

Pro tip: High-gluten flour (14%+ protein) makes even chewier bagels if you can find it. King Arthur Bread Flour works great. This is a stiff dough, and that's intentional.

Equipment

Method

Build the Levain (5 minutes active)

We build a small levain the night before so it's at peak activity when we mix the dough. This gives your bagels the best rise and flavor.

1. Combine ingredients. In a small jar or bowl, mix 15g active starter with 75g bread flour and 75g warm water until no dry flour remains. This builds 165g, a little more than the 150g the dough calls for, so you have margin for what clings to the jar.
2. Cover and rest. Cover loosely and leave at room temperature (70-75°F / 21-24°C) for 8-12 hours until doubled and bubbly.

Wait: 8-12 hours

Tip: Your levain is ready when it's doubled, domed on top, and smells pleasantly sour. If it's collapsed, it's past peak but still usable.

Mix the Dough (20 minutes)

Bagel dough is stiff. Much stiffer than bread dough. This is what gives bagels their characteristic chew. Don't add extra water even if it seems dry.

1. Combine dry and wet. In a stand mixer bowl, add the flour, warm water, ripe levain, salt, and barley malt syrup. Use all of the levain you built.
2. Mix on low. Using the dough hook, mix on low speed for 2-3 minutes until a shaggy dough forms.
3. Knead on medium. Increase to medium speed and knead for 10-12 minutes. The dough should become smooth, very stiff, and pull away from the bowl sides.
4. Window pane test. Pinch off a small piece and stretch it thin. It should stretch without tearing (windowpane test). If it tears easily, knead another 2-3 minutes.
5. Hand mixing alternative. If mixing by hand, combine ingredients in a large bowl, then turn out onto an unfloured surface and knead vigorously for 15-20 minutes. This is a workout.

Tip: The dough should feel like a firm stress ball. If it's sticky or soft, you'll get puffy bread rolls instead of chewy bagels.

Bulk Fermentation (3-4 hours)

Unlike bread, we want minimal rise here. Bagels shouldn't proof much. That's what keeps them dense and chewy.

1. Shape into ball. Form the dough into a tight ball and place in a lightly oiled bowl.
2. Cover. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel.
3. Ferment at room temperature. Let rest at room temperature (70-75°F / 21-24°C) for 3-4 hours. The dough should increase by about 25-50%, not double.
4. Check readiness. The dough should feel slightly puffy but not airy. If you poke it, it should slowly spring back.

Wait: 3-4 hours

Tip: Over-proofing is the #1 bagel mistake. If your dough doubles, it's gone too far and your bagels will deflate in the boil.

Divide and Pre-Shape (10 minutes)

We divide into equal portions for consistent bagels. The weight matters more than eyeballing.

1. Turn out dough. Gently turn the dough onto an unfloured work surface.
2. Divide. Using a bench scraper and scale, divide into 8 equal pieces (about 120g each).
3. Pre-shape into balls. Working with one piece at a time, cup your hand over the dough and move in tight circles on the counter to form a taut ball. The friction should pull the surface tight.
4. Rest briefly. Cover the balls with a damp towel and let rest 5 minutes. This relaxes the gluten for easier shaping.
5. Shape the bagels. Use either method. Poke: press your thumb through the center of a ball, then stretch the hole to about 2 inches with both index fingers, working around the ring to keep the thickness even. Rope: roll the ball into a 9 to 10 inch rope, wrap it around your palm so the ends overlap by about 1.5 inches, and roll the overlap on the counter to seal. Go bigger on the hole than looks right. It closes up a lot during the cold retard and again in the oven.

Tip: Don't flour your work surface. The friction helps create tension in the dough balls.

Cold Retard (Overnight Proof) (1 minute active)

The overnight cold retard is where the magic happens. The cold slows fermentation while enzymes continue breaking down starches, developing deep flavor and better texture.

1. Arrange on sheet. Place shaped bagels on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spaced 2 inches apart.
2. Cover. Cover loosely with plastic wrap.
3. Refrigerate. Place the covered baking sheet in the refrigerator.
4. Cold proof. Leave for 12-24 hours. Longer gives more sour flavor.

Wait: 12-24 hours

Tip: The bagels should puff slightly but not double. They're ready when they pass the float test.

Float Test and Prep (30 minutes)

The float test tells you if your bagels are ready for boiling. This step also gets everything prepped for the fast-moving boil-and-bake process.

1. Remove from fridge. Take bagels out of the refrigerator.
2. Float test. Fill a small bowl with room temperature water. Gently drop one bagel in. If it floats within 10 seconds, they're ready. If it sinks, let them rest at room temperature for 20-30 minutes and test again.
3. Preheat oven. Heat your oven to 450°F (230°C) with a rack in the center position.
4. Prepare boiling water. Fill a large pot with 4 quarts of water. Add barley malt syrup and baking soda. Bring to a rolling boil.
5. Set up topping station. Place your chosen toppings in shallow bowls or plates near the stove.
6. Prepare baking sheets. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Tip: The baking soda in the boiling water raises the pH, which helps create that characteristic shiny, chewy crust.

Boil the Bagels (15 minutes)

The boil is what makes a bagel a bagel. It gelatinizes the surface starch, creating the shiny crust and preventing the bagel from rising too much in the oven.

1. Boil in batches. Working with 2-3 bagels at a time (don't crowd), gently lower them into the boiling water.
2. Time the boil. Boil for 30-60 seconds per side. Shorter boil = lighter crust. Longer boil = chewier, denser bagel.
3. Flip carefully. Use a slotted spoon to flip each bagel.
4. Remove and drain. Lift bagels out with the slotted spoon, letting excess water drip off for a few seconds.
5. Apply toppings immediately. While still wet, dip the top of each bagel into your chosen toppings. The wet surface acts as glue.
6. Transfer to baking sheet. Place topped bagels on the prepared baking sheets, topping side up.
7. Repeat. Continue with remaining bagels.

Tip: Work quickly. The bagels need to go into the oven while they're still warm from the boil.

Bake (20-25 minutes)

High heat gives bagels their golden color and sets that chewy crust. They bake quickly, so watch them.

1. Bake. Place bagels in the preheated 450°F (230°C) oven.
2. Rotate at halfway. After 10-12 minutes, rotate the pan 180 degrees for even browning.
3. Check for doneness. Bagels are done when deep golden brown all over, 20-25 minutes total. The internal temperature should reach 200-205°F (93-96°C).
4. Cool on rack. Transfer immediately to a wire cooling rack. Let cool at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Tip: Bagels continue cooking as they cool. Cutting too early releases steam and can make the interior gummy.

Shaping

There are two shaping methods. The poke method is easier for beginners. The rope method gives you more control over the hole size.

Poke and Stretch (recommended)

The easiest method for beginners. Quick and reliable.

1. Poke a hole. Take a dough ball and poke your thumb through the center.
2. Stretch the hole. Using both index fingers, gently stretch the hole to about 2 inches wide. It will shrink during proofing and baking.
3. Even the thickness. Work around the ring, stretching gently to make the bagel even in thickness.
4. Make it bigger than you think. The hole shrinks significantly during proofing and baking, so err on the larger side.

Rope Method

Gives you more control over the hole size and shape.

1. Roll into rope. Roll a dough ball into a rope about 9-10 inches long, slightly tapered at the ends.
2. Wrap around hand. Wrap the rope around your palm so the ends overlap by about 1.5 inches.
3. Seal the seam. Roll the overlapped section back and forth on the counter to seal completely.
4. Stretch to even out. Gently stretch to even out if needed.

Proof test: Unlike bread, bagels should NOT pass a traditional poke test. The dough should feel firm and spring back quickly. Use the float test instead to determine readiness.

Baking

High heat creates the golden crust and chewy interior. Two methods available depending on your oven setup.

Oven: 230°C / 450°F. Internal temperature when done: 93-96°C / 200-205°F.

Conventional Oven (recommended)

Standard baking sheet method. Works great for most home ovens.

Equipment: Standard oven, baking sheets, parchment paper

1. Preheat. Preheat to 450°F (230°C) with rack in center position.
2. Arrange bagels. Place boiled bagels on parchment-lined sheets, topping side up.
3. Work in two batches. Boil and bake four bagels, then boil and bake the other four. Eight on one sheet crowds them and steams the crust. Keep the second four in the fridge until the first tray comes out, so they don't sit boiled and deflate on the counter.
4. Bake. Bake at 450°F (230°C) for 20-25 minutes, rotating the pan once at 10-12 minutes.
5. Check doneness. Bagels should be deep golden brown all over.

Convection Oven

Faster baking with more even browning.

Equipment: Convection oven, baking sheets, parchment paper

1. Reduce temperature. Preheat to 425°F (220°C).
2. Work in two batches. Boil and bake four bagels, then boil and bake the other four. Eight on one sheet crowds them and steams the crust. Keep the second four in the fridge until the first tray comes out, so they don't sit boiled and deflate on the counter.
3. Bake. Bake 18-22 minutes, watching carefully as convection browns faster, rotating the pan once at 10-12 minutes.
4. Watch closely. Check early. Convection can brown unevenly.

Storage

• Room temperature: Best eaten same day. Will keep 2-3 days in a paper bag at room temperature, but they'll dry out and get tough.
• Frozen: Slice before freezing. Place in freezer bag with air removed. Freeze up to 3 months. Toast directly from frozen.

For best results, slice bagels before freezing. Toast directly from frozen. No thawing needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

My bagels came out flat. What happened?

This is almost always over-proofing. The dough rose too much before or during the cold retard, so there was nothing left to give in the oven. Next time, start the cold retard earlier and make sure your dough only increased 25-50% during bulk fermentation, not doubled.

Can I use all-purpose flour?

Technically yes, but your bagels will be softer and less chewy. All-purpose has less protein (10-11%) than bread flour (12-13%). For the best results, use bread flour or high-gluten flour.

My bagels sank in the boiling water.

They weren't proofed enough. Let them rest at room temperature for 20-30 minutes and try the float test again. They should float within 10 seconds.

Can I skip the overnight cold retard?

You can, but you'll sacrifice flavor. For same-day bagels, let them proof at room temperature for 1-2 hours after shaping, then do the float test. They'll taste more like bread and less like bagels.

What if I don't have barley malt syrup?

Honey is the best substitute. Use the same amount. Brown sugar works in a pinch but gives less color and slightly different flavor.

How long do I boil for chewier bagels?

Longer boil = chewier, denser bagel. Try 60-90 seconds per side for maximum chew. Just know they'll also be slightly smaller.

Can I use sourdough discard?

Yes. Swap the levain for 150g of discard and add 3g (1 tsp) instant yeast to carry the rise. Expect bulk fermentation to look slower and flatter than the levain version, because discard is spent and the yeast is doing nearly all the work. The flavor comes out tangier and a little less complex.

Why is my dough so stiff?

That's intentional. Bagel dough runs much stiffer than bread dough, right around 60% hydration against 65 to 75% for a standard loaf. That low hydration is what gives bagels their dense, chewy texture. Trust it and don't add water.

My bagels have a big air pocket inside.

This happens when the dough wasn't kneaded enough or the shaping left air trapped inside. Make sure to achieve the windowpane test during mixing and shape tightly without trapping air.

Nutrition

Per serving (1 bagel (about 120g)): 295 calories, 58g carbohydrates, 10g protein, 1.5g fat, 2g fiber, 420mg sodium. Makes 8 servings.