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Sourdough Accordion Pull-Apart Loaf
A naturally leavened milk-bread accordion loaf. Soft enriched crumb, thick cinnamon filling, and layers that pull apart like pages.
By Henry Hunter Jr., founder of Crust & Crumb Academy and Baking Great Bread at Home.
- Prep
- 50 minutes
- Rise
- 6-10 hours total
- Bake
- 35-45 minutes
- Total
- 9-13 hours
- Yield
- One 9x5 inch loaf, about 12 pull-apart slices
- Difficulty
- advanced
- Hydration
- 61%
Ingredients
Dough
A soft, lightly sweet milk dough leavened entirely with active starter. No commercial yeast.
- 300g (2⅜ cups) bread flour
- 160g (⅔ cup) whole milk, warm (80-85°F / 27-29°C)
- 120g (½ cup) active sourdough starter (100% hydration, at peak) — Contributes 60g flour and 60g water to the totals
- 40g (3 tbsp) granulated sugar
- 50g (1 large) large egg
- 7g (1¼ tsp) fine sea salt
- 45g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened
Cinnamon Brown Sugar Filling (default)
The most accessible filling. Every pantry has this. See the filling variations in the Make the Filling phase to swap in coconut, almond, pistachio, pecan, or chocolate.
- 85g (6 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened
- 100g (½ cup) light brown sugar, packed
- 16g (2 tbsp) ground cinnamon
- 16g (2 tbsp) all-purpose flour
- 1g (¼ tsp) fine sea salt
Egg Wash
- 50g (1 large) large egg
- 15g (1 tbsp) whole milk
Total flour: 360g (300g bread flour + 60g from the starter)
Hydration: 61%
Pro tip: The flour in the cinnamon filling is not optional. It keeps the sugar from melting into syrup and flooding out the cut edges.
Equipment
Method
Mix and Knead the Dough (About 15 minutes)
Build a smooth, elastic enriched dough around ripe starter. Butter goes in last so the gluten forms first.
- Combine the Base. In a stand mixer bowl or large mixing bowl, combine the warm milk, ripe starter, sugar, and egg. Add the bread flour and salt on top. Mix on low until no dry flour remains, then cover and rest 15 minutes.
- Knead, Then Add Butter. Knead on medium 5-7 minutes, adding the softened butter a tablespoon at a time and letting each addition work in before the next. Keep going until the dough is smooth, glossy, and passes the windowpane test.
Tip: Use starter at its peak, not past it. A sluggish starter turns this into a very long day.
Bulk Fermentation (4-6 hours at 76-78°F (24-26°C))
Bulk on the counter until the dough has risen 50-60%. Enriched sourdough does not need to double.
- Bulk Fermentation. Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a lightly greased covered bowl, and ferment at 76-78°F (24-26°C) for 4-6 hours. You are looking for a 50-60% rise: aerated, light, and gently domed. Do not chase a double, and do not bulk this dough in the refrigerator.
Wait: PT5H
Tip: Mark the bowl with a rubber band. Half again as tall is the target, and the dough should feel airy when you lift the edge.
Make the Filling (During bulk fermentation)
Whichever flavor you pick, the target is the same: a spreadable paste that holds a ridge when you drag a spatula through it. Paste, not sauce.
- Mix the Filling. Cream the softened butter with the brown sugar until combined. Mix in the cinnamon, flour, and salt until you have a thick, even paste.
- Chill It. Refrigerate the filling 20 minutes while the dough finishes rising. Cold filling stays put when you roll. Warm filling slides out the ends and welds your layers together.
Tip: Filling too stiff to spread after chilling? Let it sit at room temperature 5 minutes. Do not microwave it.
Roll Out, Fill, and Roll Up (About 10 minutes)
Degas, roll to a rectangle, spread the filling, and roll into a tight log.
- Roll to a Rectangle. Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface and press out the gas with your palm. Roll it into a 10x14 inch (25x35 cm) rectangle, squaring the edges as you go. Even thickness matters more than perfect corners.
- Spread the Filling. Spread the chilled filling over the lower two-thirds of the rectangle, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border on all sides. Do not spread to the edges. Filling at the edge leaks, the seam will not seal, and the layers glue into one solid block.
- Roll and Seal. Starting from the filled short end, roll the dough into a tight log. Pinch the seam closed along the full length and set the log seam-side down.
Tip: A bench scraper squares the edges of your rectangle faster than a rolling pin ever will.
Flatten, Cut, Stack, and Fold (The signature move)
This is what turns a swirl into standing sheets. Take it slow the first time.
- Flatten and Chill. Press the log flat with your palm until it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Chill the flattened log 15 minutes. Firm filling cuts clean. Soft filling smears across the blade and seals the layers back together.
- Cut, But Leave the Hinge. With a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut the flattened log in half lengthwise, stopping 1 inch (2.5 cm) short of the far end so the two halves stay hinged together. Do not cut all the way through. The hinge is what holds the stack when you fold.
- Stack and Repeat. Open the cut and lay the halves cut-side up. Stack one half on top of the other, layers facing the same direction. Press gently, flatten slightly, and make one more lengthwise cut with the same 1-inch hinge.
- Accordion Fold. Fold the stacked strips back and forth on themselves like an accordion, keeping the cut layers facing the same direction. You will end up with a compact block roughly the length of your pan.
Tip: If a strip tears free at the hinge, do not panic. Tuck it into the fold with the layers facing the same way. The proof and the bake hide small sins.
Pan and Final Proof (2-4 hours)
Into the pan cut-side up, then a full final proof judged by the dough, not the clock.
- Pan It. Place the folded block into a greased or parchment-lined 9x5 inch loaf pan with the cut layers facing up. It will look loose and uneven. The proof and the oven pull it together.
- Final Proof. Cover and proof at 76-80°F (24-27°C) for 2-4 hours. It is ready when the loaf looks visibly puffy, the layers have relaxed into each other, and a floured finger leaves a dent that springs back slowly. Judge the dough, not the clock.
Wait: PT3H
Tip: Start the oven preheating when the loaf is about 30 minutes from ready.
Overnight Option (Shape tonight, bake tomorrow)
The refrigerator is a brake, not a proof box.
- Shape and Chill. Shape the loaf completely, pan it cut-side up, cover well, and refrigerate 8-12 hours.
- Finish the Proof Warm. Pull the pan out in the morning and let it finish proofing at room temperature for 1-3 hours until puffy with a slow spring-back. Do not bake straight from the refrigerator. Cold dough that has not finished proofing bakes dense and tight.
Tip: A cold loaf can look proofed and still be sleeping. Go by feel every time.
Wash and Bake (35-45 minutes)
Egg wash for shine, then a moderate bake so the layers cook through before the top burns.
- Egg Wash. Whisk the egg with the milk and brush it gently over the proofed loaf, getting into the ridges without deflating them.
- Bake. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 35-45 minutes, until deep golden and the internal temperature reads 190°F (88°C) at the center. If the top browns fast at 25 minutes, tent loosely with foil and finish the bake.
- Cool. Turn the loaf out of the pan after 10 minutes. Do not leave it sitting in a hot pan. Cool at least 30 minutes on a wire rack before pulling it apart. The layers set as they cool.
Tip: Enriched doughs brown fast because of the sugar and egg. Trust the thermometer over the color.
The Accordion Shape
Roll, flatten, cut with a hinge, stack, fold. The cut layers always face up in the pan.
Accordion Fold (Recommended) (recommended)
The full cut-and-stack method for vertical pull-apart layers
- Flatten the Log. Press the filled log to 1 inch thick and chill 15 minutes.
- Cut with a Hinge. Slice lengthwise, stopping 1 inch from the end so the halves stay connected.
- Stack. Lay both halves cut-side up, stack them, and cut once more with a hinge.
- Fold. Accordion-fold into a block and pan it cut-side up.
Simple Swirl (Easier)
Skip the cutting. Roll the filled log to pan length and bake it seam-side down for a classic swirl loaf. Same recipe, less drama.
- Roll to Length. Roll the filled log until it matches your pan, place seam-side down, and proof as directed.
Proof test: Press with a floured finger. A slow spring-back means it is ready.
Bake to Temperature
Moderate heat cooks the layered center through before the enriched crust over-browns.
Oven: 175°C / 350°F. Internal temperature when done: 88°C / 190°F.
Loaf Pan (Recommended) (recommended)
A 9x5 metal loaf pan gives the layers walls to climb
Equipment: 9x5 inch loaf pan
- Preheat. Preheat to 350°F (175°C) with a rack in the center.
- Bake. Bake 35-45 minutes to an internal temperature of 190°F (88°C).
- Tent if Needed. If the top is deep brown by 25 minutes, tent with foil and finish the bake.
- Cool. 10 minutes in the pan, 30 on a wire rack before serving.
Note: Trust the thermometer. Sugar and egg make this crust brown before the center is done.
Storage
- Room temperature: 2-3 days wrapped tightly or in a bread bag
- Refrigerated: Not recommended. It stales the crumb fast.
- Frozen: Up to 2 months, wrapped whole or pulled into sections
Warm at 300°F for 8-10 minutes to bring the layers back to just-baked softness
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bulk ferment this dough in the refrigerator?
No. Enriched sourdough needs warm bulk fermentation to build strength and flavor. Bulk on the counter at 76-78°F to a 50-60% rise. Use the refrigerator only after shaping, as a brake on the final proof.
Why only a 50-60% rise instead of doubling?
Butter, sugar, and egg slow fermentation and weaken the gluten. Push an enriched sourdough to a full double in bulk and you spend the strength you need for the accordion shaping and the oven.
How do I know the final proof is done?
Look and feel, not the clock. The loaf should be visibly puffy, the layers relaxed into each other, and a floured fingertip should leave a dent that fills back in slowly. That can be 2 hours in a warm kitchen or 4 in a cool one.
My filling leaked out during the bake. What went wrong?
Two usual suspects. Either the filling was spread all the way to the edges so the seam never sealed, or it was too warm and loose when you rolled. Leave a 1-inch border and chill the filling before spreading.
I cut all the way through the log. Is it ruined?
No. Lay the loose strips cut-side up, stack them by hand, and fold as directed. The hinge makes folding easier but the loaf bakes fine either way. It just takes a gentler touch to move.
Why is the middle of my loaf gummy?
It came out early. All those filling layers slow the bake at the center. Pull it at 190°F (88°C) internal, not by color, and give it the full cooling time. The layers finish setting as it cools.
Can I use all-purpose flour for the dough?
Yes. Reduce the milk by about 15g (1 tablespoon) since all-purpose absorbs less. The crumb will be a touch softer and less chewy.
Can I swap the filling?
That is the whole point of this bake. Follow the filling template in the Make the Filling phase: equal weights butter, sugar, and a ground dry solid, bound with egg for nut fillings or flour for the cinnamon version. Coconut, almond, pistachio, pecan, and chocolate all work at 100g each. For the savory garlic-cheese version shown in the photos, see Going Savory in the same phase.
Can I make this the night before?
Yes. Shape it, pan it, cover tightly, and refrigerate up to 16 hours. Bake straight from the fridge, adding 5-10 minutes and watching the internal temperature.
Nutrition
Per serving (1 slice (about 75g)): 250 calories, 38g carbohydrates, 5g protein, 9g fat, 1g fiber, 235mg sodium. Makes 12 servings.