Khorasan & Emmer Cinnamon Swirl Bread

Ingredients

Flour

Milled fresh and cooled for 10 to 15 minutes

• 270g (2¼ cups) fresh-milled khorasan (Kamut) flour
• 180g (1½ cups) fresh-milled emmer flour

Dough

• 270g (1 cup + 2 tbsp) whole milk, lukewarm
• 50g (1 large) large egg, room temperature
• 45g (2 tbsp) honey
• 45g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened
• 7g (1¼ tsp) fine sea salt
• 5g (1¾ tsp) instant yeast

Cinnamon Paste Filling

• 85g (scant ½ cup) dark brown sugar, packed
• 10g (1 tbsp + 1 tsp) ground cinnamon
• 30g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter, very soft
• 8g (1 tbsp) fresh-milled emmer flour
• 1g (⅛ tsp) fine sea salt

Pan and Finish

• 15g (1 tbsp) whole milk, for brushing the dough
• 10g (2 tsp) unsalted butter, for the pan
• 10g (2 tsp) unsalted butter, melted, for the top

Total flour: 450g

Hydration: 71%

Pro tip: The filling is a paste, not a dry sprinkle. A wet filling is the secret to a swirl that stays attached.

Equipment

Method

Mill and Weigh the Flour

Mill both grains fresh and let them cool.

1. Mill and cool. Mill about 275g khorasan berries and 190g emmer berries on a medium-fine setting. Spread the flour in a wide bowl and cool it for 10 to 15 minutes. Weigh it out, including the small amount for the filling.

Tip: Khorasan flour is golden and buttery. Emmer is nutty and a bit darker.

Mix and Rest

A short soak softens the bran before kneading.

1. Mix flour, milk, and egg. In your mixer bowl, combine the khorasan, emmer, milk, and egg. Mix until no dry flour is left, about 1 minute. It will look shaggy.
2. Rest. Cover and rest for 30 minutes. This autolyse gives the bran time to drink and the dough time to organize itself.

Wait: PT30M

Knead the Dough

Smooth, soft, and just tacky.

1. Add the yeast, salt, honey, and butter. Sprinkle on the instant yeast and salt, drizzle in the honey, and add the soft butter in small pieces.
2. Knead. Knead on low for 3 minutes, then medium-low for 6 to 8 minutes. The dough should be smooth and slightly tacky, and a small piece should stretch to a thin windowpane. Khorasan builds strong, soft gluten, but don't overwork it. Aim for a dough temperature of 76 to 80°F (24 to 27°C).

Tip: Wet your hands before you handle the dough. Extra flour makes a drier swirl.

First Rise

Let the dough grow by half.

1. Ferment. Move the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let it rise at 76°F (24°C) for 60 to 90 minutes. The bulk fermentation is done when the dough is about 50 percent bigger and puffy, not doubled.

Wait: PT1H15M

Fill and Shape

Wet filling, tight roll, sealed seam.

1. Make the filling paste. Mash the brown sugar, cinnamon, soft butter, emmer flour, and salt with a fork until it forms a thick, spreadable paste.
2. Roll out the dough. Grease a 9x5 inch (23x13 cm) loaf pan. Turn the dough onto a barely floured counter and roll it into a 9 x 16 inch (23 x 40 cm) rectangle, short side facing you.
3. Brush and spread. Brush the dough with the milk. Spread the filling paste over it, leaving a 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) bare border along the top short edge.
4. Roll and seal. Roll up tightly from the bottom short edge. Pinch the seam closed and tuck the ends under. Set the loaf in the pan seam side down.

Final Proof

Stop at the rim and the swirl stays put.

1. Proof the loaf. Cover the pan and let the loaf proof for 45 to 60 minutes, until it sits about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the rim. Start heating the oven to 350°F (175°C) for the last 20 minutes.

Wait: PT55M

Tip: Over-proofing is the leading cause of a gap. If in doubt, bake it.

Bake and Cool

Tent early and turn out fast.

1. Bake. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 40 to 45 minutes. Tent loosely with foil after 25 minutes, since the sugar browns the top quickly. The loaf is done at 195°F (90°C) in the center.
2. Turn out and finish. Rest the loaf in the pan for 5 minutes, then turn it out. Sugar sticks if it cools in the pan. Brush the top with the melted butter and cool on a rack for 1 hour before slicing.

Tip: Use a serrated knife and a sawing motion. Don't press down.

Fill and Roll

A tight roll and a sealed seam keep the swirl bonded.

Classic Swirl Loaf (recommended)

A single 9x5 loaf with a tight spiral

1. Roll out. Roll the dough to 9 x 16 inches (23 x 40 cm).
2. Fill. Brush with milk, spread the paste, and leave a 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) border.
3. Roll tight. Roll from the short edge, seal the seam, tuck the ends, and place seam side down.

Proof test: Press a floured fingertip into the side of the dough. It should fill back slowly and leave a small dimple.

Bake the Loaf

A moderate oven cooks the center before the sugar can scorch.

Oven: 175°C / 350°F. Internal temperature when done: 90°C / 195°F.

Standard Oven (Recommended) (recommended)

Middle rack, tent early

Equipment: 9x5 inch loaf pan, wire rack

1. Preheat. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. Bake. Bake 40 to 45 minutes.
3. Tent. Cover loosely with foil after 25 minutes.
4. Check. Look for 195°F (90°C) in the center.
5. Turn out. Rest 5 minutes in the pan, turn out, brush with butter, and cool 1 hour.

Note: The sugar is hot enough to burn skin when it leaks. Use oven mitts when you turn the loaf out.

Storage

• Room temperature: 3 to 4 days in a bread bag or wrapped in a clean towel
• Refrigerated: Not recommended. The fridge dries whole grain bread out faster.
• Frozen: Up to 3 months, sliced
• Refresh: Toast slices straight from the freezer, or warm at 300°F (150°C) for 8 to 10 minutes.

Slice what you'll eat in two days and freeze the rest the day you bake.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did my swirl separate from the bread?

The two usual causes are a dry filling and over-proofing. Use the paste filling, roll tightly, seal the seam, and bake when the loaf is 1 inch above the rim.

Can I use store-bought whole grain flour?

Yes. Use the same weights of whole grain khorasan and emmer flour. Hold back 15g of the milk and add it only if the dough feels stiff after the rest.

Can I swap the emmer?

Spelt works 1:1 for the emmer. Hard white wheat also works, though you lose a little of the nutty flavor.

My loaf browned too fast. What do I do?

Tent it with foil after 25 minutes and check your oven with a thermometer. Many home ovens run 15 to 25°F hot.

Can I add raisins or nuts?

Yes. Scatter up to 80g of raisins or chopped pecans over the paste before you roll. Keep the layer thin so the roll stays tight.

Nutrition

Per serving (1 slice (about 75g)): 230 calories, 39g carbohydrates, 7g protein, 7g fat, 4g fiber, 250mg sodium. Makes 12 servings.