Holiday Fruitcake Worth Defending
Dark, spiced fruitcake with brandy-soaked dates, figs, and apricots, toasted nuts, and molasses. Start the soak in September, feed it until Christmas.
By Henry Hunter Jr., founder of Crust & Crumb Academy and Baking Great Bread at Home.
- Prep
- 1 hour (bake day)
- Bake
- 70-110 minutes
- Total
- 6-14 weeks from first soak to first slice
- Yield
- Two 9x5 inch loaves (about 16 thin slices each) or one 10-12 cup bundt
- Difficulty
- intermediate
Ingredients
Brandy Fruit Soak (start in September)
- 150g (1 cup) Dates, pitted and chopped
- 150g (1 cup) Dried figs, stemmed and chopped
- 200g (1 1/3 cups) Raisins
- 150g (1 cup) Dried apricots, chopped
- 125g (3/4 cup) Dried cherries
- 100g (1/2 cup) Candied orange peel, diced
- 240ml (1 cup) Brandy
Batter (bake day, November)
- 300g (2 1/2 cups) All-purpose flour
- 4g (1 tsp) Baking powder
- 3g (1/2 tsp) Baking soda
- 6g (1 tsp) Fine sea salt
- 5g (2 tsp) Ground cinnamon
- 2g (1 tsp) Ground ginger
- 2g (1 tsp) Ground allspice
- 1g (1/2 tsp) Ground cloves
- 1g (1/2 tsp) Freshly grated nutmeg
- 225g (1 cup (2 sticks)) Unsalted butter, softened
- 200g (1 cup) Dark brown sugar, packed
- 85g (1/4 cup) Unsulphured molasses (not blackstrap)
- 200g (4 large eggs) Large eggs, room temperature
- 10ml (2 tsp) Vanilla extract
- 1 tbsp (1 tbsp) Orange zest
- 150g (1 1/4 cups) Walnuts, toasted and chopped
- 100g (1 cup) Pecans, toasted and chopped
Aging (November to Christmas)
- 240ml (1 cup, used over 4-6 weeks) Brandy, for dampening cheesecloth and weekly feeding
Equipment
Method
Start the Brandy Soak (September) (Two weeks minimum, twelve is better)
This is the whole reason we start in September. Dried fruit sitting in brandy for weeks does something a quick overnight soak can't. The fruit plumps, the brandy pulls sugar out, the sugar pulls brandy in, and by November you've got fruit that tastes like it was born boozy.
- Chop the fruit. Chop the dates, figs, and apricots into raisin-sized pieces. Keep the raisins, cherries, and candied orange peel whole. You want everything roughly the same size so no single bite dominates. Notice what's not here: not one neon candied cherry. Those little red things are why fruitcake became a punchline.
- Jar it up. Combine all the fruit and peel in a clean 2 quart jar or crock. Pour the brandy over the top and stir until every piece is wet. The brandy won't cover the fruit completely. That's fine. You'll be turning the jar, not drowning the fruit.
- Store and shake weekly. Lid the jar and park it in a cool, dark cupboard. Once a week, give it a good shake or a stir to redistribute the brandy. Set a repeating reminder on your phone. That's it. That's the work. The jar holds happily until bake day, two weeks minimum, twelve weeks if you started Labor Day weekend.
Wait: P14D
Tip: The alcohol preserves the fruit, so there's no food safety clock ticking here. If life gets busy and you bake in early December instead, the cake still works. You just age it a shorter time.
Bake Day Prep (November) (Toast, drain, line)
Pick a bake day in mid-November. That gives the finished cake 4 to 6 weeks of feeding before Christmas, which is the sweet spot.
- Toast the nuts. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Spread the walnuts and pecans on a sheet pan and toast 8 to 10 minutes until fragrant. Cool completely, then chop. Raw nuts go soggy inside a dense cake. Toasted nuts stay nutty for months.
- Drain the fruit, save the brandy. Set a sieve over a bowl and drain the soaked fruit. Save every drop of that brandy. You'll stir 60ml (1/4 cup) of it into the batter and the rest goes toward feeding the baked cakes. Let the fruit sit in the sieve while you work so the batter doesn't get watery.
- Line the pans. Drop the oven to 300°F (150°C). Butter two 9x5 loaf pans and line them with parchment slings, or grease a bundt pan thoroughly, getting into every crease. This batter is heavy and sticky. Skimp on pan prep and you'll be digging your Christmas gift out with a spatula.
Mix the Batter (Creaming method, then fold)
This is a dense, dark batter held together by the creaming method. There's barely enough of it to hold the fruit and nuts, and that's the point. A great fruitcake is fruit first, cake second.
- Whisk the dry ingredients. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, cloves, and nutmeg in a bowl. Give it a full 30 seconds of whisking so the spices are even throughout.
- Cream butter, sugar, and molasses. Beat the softened butter, brown sugar, and molasses on medium until lighter in color and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape the bowl twice. The molasses is what makes this cake dark and keeps it moist through weeks of aging, so don't swap it for more sugar.
- Add eggs, vanilla, and zest. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each. The mixture may look slightly broken after the last egg. It comes back together with the flour. Beat in the vanilla, orange zest, and 60ml (1/4 cup) of the reserved soaking brandy.
- Fold in flour, fruit, and nuts. Add the dry mix and fold by hand just until no dry streaks remain. Then fold in the drained fruit and toasted nuts. The batter will be extremely thick, more fruit than batter. That's correct. If it looks like a normal cake batter with some fruit in it, something's off.
Wrap, Feed, and Age (November to Christmas) (The weekly ritual)
This phase starts after the cakes are baked and fully cooled. It's five minutes a week, and it's what separates a decent fruitcake from one people ask you about in January.
- Wrap in brandy-dampened cheesecloth. Cut cheesecloth big enough to wrap each cooled cake in a double layer. Dampen it with brandy, wring it so it's moist but not dripping, and wrap the cake snugly. Then wrap in foil and tuck into an airtight tin. Cool, dark cupboard. Not the fridge.
- Feed weekly. Once a week, unwrap, brush every surface with 1 to 2 tablespoons of brandy, and check the cheesecloth. If it's drying out, re-dampen it. Rewrap and put the cake back to bed. Do this every week until Christmas, 4 to 6 feedings total. Set the same phone reminder you used for the jar.
- Know when to stop. If the surface starts to feel wet rather than moist, skip a feeding. You're aiming for a cake that slices clean and tastes warm with brandy, not one that squishes. Stop all feeding 3 to 4 days before gifting so the last dose settles in.
Wait: P42D
Tip: Label the tin with the bake date and each feed date in marker. When you gift the cake, that little log on the tin tells the story better than any card.
Choose Your Pan
Same batter, two presentations. Loaves are the gifting move. The bundt is the centerpiece move.
Two 9x5 Loaves (recommended)
The best format for gifting: one to give, one to keep, and loaves fit standard tins for aging.
- Divide and smooth. Split the batter evenly between the two lined pans, about 1.1kg each. Press it into the corners with a wet spatula and smooth the tops. This batter doesn't flow, so wherever you leave it is where it bakes.
- Tap and settle. Rap each pan firmly on the counter three or four times to knock out air pockets hiding between fruit pieces.
One Bundt
One dramatic ring for the holiday table. Needs a 10-12 cup pan and a longer bake.
- Fill and press. Spoon all the batter into the well-greased bundt and press it down firmly so it fills every flute. Smooth the top, which becomes the bottom, so the cake sits flat.
- Extend the bake. Plan on 95 to 110 minutes at the same temperature and start checking at 90. Cool a full 20 minutes in the pan before inverting, no less. This cake needs time to firm up or it can break on release.
Proof test: No proofing here, this is a chemically leavened batter. Go straight from pan to oven.
Bake Low and Slow
Fruitcake bakes at 300°F because the fruit is loaded with sugar and will scorch at normal cake temperatures. Low heat, long bake, moist cake.
Oven: 150°C / 300°F. Internal temperature when done: 93°C / 200°F.
Loaf Pans (recommended)
For two 9x5 inch loaves.
Equipment: Two 9x5 inch loaf pans
- Bake. Bake at 300°F (150°C) for 70 to 85 minutes. Tent with foil at the 45 minute mark if the tops are darkening fast. The cakes are done at 200°F (93°C) internal, with a skewer coming out with moist crumbs but no wet batter.
- First brandy brush. Brush the hot tops with a tablespoon of the reserved soaking brandy the minute they come out of the oven. Hot cake drinks brandy better than cool cake.
- Cool completely. Cool 15 minutes in the pans, then lift out by the parchment and cool completely on a rack, 2 to 3 hours. Wrapping a warm cake traps steam and ruins the aging, so be patient here.
Bundt
For one 10-12 cup bundt pan.
Equipment: 10-12 cup bundt pan
- Bake. Bake at 300°F (150°C) for 95 to 110 minutes, checking at 90. Same doneness targets: 200°F (93°C) internal, moist crumbs on a skewer.
- Cool, invert, brush. Cool 20 minutes in the pan, invert onto a rack, then brush all over with brandy while still warm. Cool completely before wrapping.
Note: Doneness cue that matters most: the center should read 200°F (93°C) and the cake should feel dense but set when pressed. A jiggly center means wet batter, not fudginess.
Storage
- Room temperature: Wrapped in brandy-fed cheesecloth, foil, and a tin: 2 months easily. After cutting, rewrap tightly and eat within 2 weeks.
- Frozen: Up to 6 months, wrapped in plastic then foil. Thaw overnight at room temperature, still wrapped, then resume feeding if you want to age it further.
For gifting, wrap the fed cake in fresh parchment and twine and note the bake date on the tag. Tell them it keeps for weeks. People don't believe it until they taste why.
Frequently Asked Questions
I missed September. Can I still make this?
Yes. Two weeks of soaking is the honest minimum, so you can start as late as early December for Christmas. You'll trade away some aging time, so feed the baked cake every 4 to 5 days instead of weekly and it'll catch up respectably.
Why does everyone hate fruitcake?
Because most people have only met the mass-produced version: neon candied cherries, no soak, no aging, dry crumb, all made in a day. This cake shares a name with that thing and nothing else. Dark fruit, real brandy, six weeks of patience.
Do I have to feed it every single week?
Weekly is the rhythm that works, but this cake is forgiving. Miss a week and just feed it when you remember. What you shouldn't do is double up feedings to compensate, because an over-wet cake gets soggy instead of mellow.
Can I make this alcohol-free?
The soak can be done with strong black tea and orange juice, refrigerated, for 3 days instead of weeks. Skip the cheesecloth feeding entirely and eat the cake within a week of baking, or freeze it. The long aging genuinely depends on the alcohol.
My batter seems way too thick. Did I do something wrong?
Almost certainly not. There's about 875g of fruit and 250g of nuts held together by roughly a kilo of batter. It should look like fruit lightly mortared together. If you can pour it, recheck your flour weight.
Can I use the sourdough discard version and still age it?
Yes. The discard is fully baked, so the aging and feeding schedule doesn't change at all. The tang actually gets more interesting around week three.
Nutrition
Per serving (1 thin slice (about 72g)): 275 calories, 40g carbohydrates, 4g protein, 11g fat, 3g fiber, 125mg sodium. Makes 32 servings.