Fresh-Milled Sandwich Bread

Ingredients

Fresh-Milled Flour

Mill it, let it cool, then weigh it.

• 608g (5 cups) Hard white wheat, freshly milled
• 120g (1 cup) Khorasan (Kamut) or spelt, freshly milled

Everything Else

• 270g (1⅛ cups) Water
• 270g (1⅛ cups) Whole milk
• 63g (4½ tbsp) Unsalted butter
• 94g (4½ tbsp) Honey (or granulated sugar, see note) — If you use granulated sugar instead, use 4½ tbsp, about 56g.
• 75g (1½ large eggs) Eggs, beaten and weighed — Beat 2 eggs and weigh out 75g.
• 14g (2¼ tsp) Fine sea salt
• 9g (3 tsp) Instant yeast

Total flour: 728g (100% whole grain)

Hydration: 74%

Pro tip: Weigh everything. Hydration here counts only the water and milk. The eggs, honey, and butter add moisture too, which is why this dough feels wet at first.

Equipment

Method

Mill the Flour (About 15 minutes)

Fresh flour is what makes these loaves taste sweet and nutty. No mill? Weigh out fresh store-bought white whole wheat and move on.

1. Mill the hard white wheat. Mill about 620g of hard white wheat berries on a fine setting. You need 608g of flour. The extra is a cushion.
2. Mill the khorasan or spelt. Mill about 125g of khorasan (sold as Kamut) or spelt. You need 120g. This is your ancient grain, and it adds a buttery flavor.
3. Cool it and weigh it. Flour comes off the mill warm and fluffy. Let it cool for 15 minutes, then weigh it. Don't trust the cups.

Tip: Mill right before you bake. The flavor is at its best while the flour is fresh.

Mix the Dough (About 10 minutes)

Warm the liquids, add the flour, and mix just until the flour is wet. The yeast comes later.

1. Melt the butter. Put the water, milk, and butter in a microwave-safe bowl. Heat just until the butter melts, then stir.
2. Cool it to warm. It should feel warm, not hot, about 100°F (38°C). If it's hotter, wait a few minutes. Hot liquid will scramble the egg.
3. Add honey, egg, and salt. Pour the liquid into your stand mixer bowl. Add the honey, beaten egg, and salt, and mix to combine.
4. Add the flour. Add all the flour and mix on low until there's no dry flour left. It'll look wet and shaggy. That's right.

Tip: Unsalted butter lets you control the salt.

Rest, Then Knead (30 minutes rest, 10 to 25 minutes kneading)

Give the flour time to drink before you add yeast and knead. It saves you mixer time and makes a softer loaf.

1. Let it soak. Cover the bowl and leave it at room temperature for 30 minutes. You can go as short as 15 minutes or as long as 2 hours. This autolyse lets the bran soften in the liquid.
2. Add the yeast. Sprinkle the instant yeast over the dough and mix it in on low until it's spread evenly.
3. Knead. Knead with the dough hook on low to medium-low. Fresh-milled dough can take anywhere from 10 to 25 minutes to come together, so check often. If your mixer gets hot or labors, stop and let the dough rest for 10 minutes.
4. Do the windowpane test. Pinch off a piece the size of a golf ball and stretch it gently between your fingers. When you can stretch it thin enough to see light through without it tearing, it's done. If it tears right away, knead a few more minutes. (See windowpane test.)

Tip: Check the windowpane every 3 to 4 minutes once you hit the 10 minute mark.

First Rise (1 to 2 hours)

Let the dough double. Time depends on your kitchen, so watch the dough, not the clock.

1. Cover and rise. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover it. Let it rise until it has doubled in size, usually 1 to 2 hours.

Tip: A warm spot, 75°F to 80°F (24°C to 27°C), keeps you near the 1 hour end.

Shape and Final Rise (About 1 hour)

Divide, shape tight, and let the loaves puff up in the pans.

1. Divide. Oil your hands and the counter lightly, since the dough is sticky. Turn the dough out and cut it in half with a bench scraper. Each piece should weigh about the same.
2. Shape. Press each piece into a rectangle about 8 inches wide. Roll it up tightly from the short end and pinch the seam closed. You want some tension on the surface.
3. Into the pans. Set each loaf seam side down in a parchment-lined 8.5 x 4.5 inch pan.
4. Final rise. Cover the pans and let the loaves rise 40 to 50 minutes, until they're puffy and crowned about an inch above the rim.
5. Preheat. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) during the last 15 to 20 minutes of the rise.

Tip: Poke test: a floured finger should leave a dent that fills back in slowly.

Bake and Cool (30 to 40 minutes, then 1 hour of patience)

Bake until the inside hits 190°F (88°C), then get the loaves out of the pans right away.

1. Bake. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 30 to 40 minutes. If the tops brown too fast, tent them loosely with foil after about 20 minutes.
2. Check the temperature. The loaves are done when an instant-read thermometer in the center reads 190°F (88°C).
3. Out of the pans. Turn the loaves out of the pans right away and set them on a wire rack. Leaving them in the pan traps steam and makes the crust soggy.
4. Cool. Cool for at least 1 hour before slicing. Slice as thick or thin as you like.

Tip: For a softer top, brush the hot loaves with a little melted butter.

Bake Day

One temperature, one thermometer, done.

Oven: 175°C / 350°F. Internal temperature when done: 88°C / 190°F.

Loaf Pans (recommended)

Two 8.5 x 4.5 inch pans, parchment lined.

Equipment: Two 8.5 x 4.5 inch loaf pans

1. Preheat. 350°F (175°C).
2. Bake. 30 to 40 minutes, until the center reads 190°F (88°C).
3. Unpan and cool. Out of the pans right away, then 1 hour on a rack before slicing.

Note: Out of the pan right away. Steam is the enemy of a good crust.

Storage

• Room temperature: 2 to 3 days in an airtight container or bag
• Refrigerated: Not recommended. It speeds staling.
• Frozen: Up to 3 months. Freeze the same day you bake, fully cooled.

Thaw on the counter at room temperature, or toast slices from frozen.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my pans are a different size?

This recipe is built for two 8.5 x 4.5 inch pans. For two 4 x 8 inch pans, use the 0.67x scale. For two 9 x 5 inch pans, use 1.33x. Weigh the dough pieces so your loaves match.

Can I use store-bought whole wheat flour?

Yes. Use fresh white whole wheat flour and weigh it, same amounts. You'll lose some of the sweetness fresh-milled flour gives you. Start with a 15 minute soak instead of 30.

Why do I rest the dough before adding yeast?

Fresh-milled flour drinks water slowly. The rest lets the bran soften, so the dough comes together faster and the crumb turns out softer.

Can I use sugar instead of honey?

Yes. Swap in 4½ tbsp of granulated sugar, about 56g. The honey weight is higher because honey is heavier by the spoonful.

My dough is really sticky. What do I do?

Oil your hands and the counter instead of adding flour. Flour added now makes a drier, denser loaf. The dough gets easier to handle after the knead.

How do I know when to stop kneading?

Use the windowpane test. A small piece should stretch thin enough to see light through before it tears. That can take 10 to 25 minutes, so check as you go.

Nutrition

Per serving (1 slice (about 50g)): 125 calories, 22g carbohydrates, 4g protein, 3g fat, 3g fiber, 200mg sodium. Makes 28 servings.