Fresh-Milled Miche

Ingredients

Stiff Levain

Mix this the evening before. It's ready in 12 to 16 hours.

• 113g (½ cup) Water, barely warm (75°F to 80°F / 24°C to 27°C)
• 35g (heaping 2 tbsp) Ripe sourdough starter
• 194g (1½ cups + 2 tbsp) Whole wheat flour, freshly milled
• 4g (¾ tsp) Fine sea salt

Dough

Mixed the next morning with the whole levain.

• 392g (1⅔ cups) Water, room temperature
• 256g (2 cups + 2 tbsp) All-purpose flour, unbleached
• 129g (1 cup + 2 tbsp) Whole wheat flour, freshly milled
• 64g (½ cup + 2 tbsp) Whole rye flour, freshly milled
• 9g (1½ tsp) Fine sea salt
• 1g (heaping ¼ tsp) Instant yeast
• 346g (the whole batch) Stiff levain, all of it

Total flour: 660g (about 59% whole grain)

Hydration: 79%

Pro tip: Weigh everything. Freshly milled flour is fluffy, so a cup of it weighs less than a cup of store-bought. The cup measures are a backup, not the plan.

Equipment

Method

Mill the Flour (15 minutes plus cooling)

Fresh flour is the whole point of this loaf, so we start at the mill. No mill? Use fresh whole wheat and whole rye flour and skip ahead to the levain.

1. Mill the wheat. Mill about 340g of hard wheat berries on a fine setting. You need 323g of flour in all, 194g for the levain and 129g for the dough. The extra is a cushion.
2. Mill the rye. Mill about 70g of rye berries. You need 64g.
3. Cool it and weigh it. Flour comes off the mill warm and airy. Let it sit 15 to 20 minutes, then weigh it. Don't scoop and level, because fresh flour packs unevenly.

Tip: Mill the day you bake, or the day before at most. The flavor is sweetest while the flour is fresh.

Build the Stiff Levain (12 to 16 hours at room temperature)

A stiff, kneaded levain is the engine of this loaf. Mix it before bed and let it work overnight.

1. Break up the starter. Put the warm water in a medium bowl, add the sourdough starter, and rub it between your fingers until it's spread through the water.
2. Add flour and salt. Add the fresh-milled whole wheat and the salt. Mix, then knead right in the bowl for a minute or two until you have a smooth, stiff ball.
3. Cover and wait. Cover the bowl and leave it at about 68°F (20°C). It's ready when it's puffed, domed, and smells sweet with a little tang. In a warmer kitchen, check it sooner.

Wait: 12 to 16 hours

Tip: Mix the levain around 7 PM and it'll be ready somewhere between 7 and 11 the next morning.

Mix the Dough (About 10 minutes)

This is a wet, shaggy mix. That's right where you want it.

1. Loosen the levain. Put the room-temperature water and the whole levain in your large bowl. Squeeze the levain with your hands until it's in small pieces and the water looks cloudy.
2. Add everything else. Add the all-purpose flour, fresh-milled whole wheat, fresh-milled rye, salt, and yeast. Stir with the handle of a wooden spoon until it forms a shaggy mass. If that's awkward, scrape it onto the counter and knead just until it comes together.
3. Don't add flour. It'll feel wet and slack. Resist the urge to fix it. The bran needs time to soak up water, and the dough tightens as it rests.
4. Back in the bowl. Scrape the dough into the bowl, scrape down the sides, and cover. Note the time. The clock starts now.

Tip: Wet hands handle this dough better than floured ones.

Bulk Fermentation with Folds (3 hours at room temperature)

Three hours of rising with five sets of folds. The folds build the strength this dough can't get from kneading.

1. Learn the fold. With wet hands, pull the edge closest to you up and over into the center. Turn the bowl 90 degrees and repeat, until you've pulled in all four sides. That's one set. (See stretch and fold.)
2. Fold at 15, 30, 45, and 60 minutes. Do a set at each mark, counting from when the dough went into the bowl. It gets smoother and stronger every time.
3. Fold once more at 2 hours. One last set at the 2 hour mark, then cover it back up.
4. Hands off for the final hour. Leave it alone for the last 60 minutes. At 3 hours total, the dough should look puffy and airy, with a few bubbles along the side of the bowl. This is bulk fermentation.

Tip: Stick a note on the bowl with your start time. Five fold sets are easy to lose track of.

Pre-shape, Shape, and Proof (About 1 hour 15 minutes)

Shape it into a tight round and give it a short final rest.

1. Pre-shape. Turn the dough out with a bench scraper and gather it into a loose round. Cover it and let it rest 15 minutes. This is the pre shape.
2. Shape the boule. Tighten the round into a smooth boule. Drag it toward you a few times on the counter to build surface tension.
3. Into the banneton. Flour a banneton or towel-lined bowl, about 10 inches wide and 4 inches deep. A 9 inch lined brotform works too. Set the boule in seam side up.
4. Final proof. Cover it and let it rest 50 to 60 minutes at room temperature. Put the Dutch oven in the oven and start the preheat as soon as the loaf goes in the banneton.

Tip: Poke test: press a floured finger in gently. If it fills back in slowly, bake it. If it springs back fast, give it 10 more minutes. If the dent stays, bake right now.

Bake and Cool (40 to 45 minutes in the oven, then a good long cool)

A hot Dutch oven gives this big loaf the steam it needs for a deep, crackly crust.

1. Preheat with the pot. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) with the Dutch oven and lid inside. Give it at least 45 minutes.
2. Flip onto parchment. Set a sheet of parchment over the banneton and flip the loaf out onto it. The smooth side that was against the basket is now the top.
3. Score. Scoring the top several times with a lame. Quick, confident cuts, about ¼ inch deep.
4. Load the pot. Using the parchment as a sling, lower the loaf into the hot pot. Leave the parchment under it for the whole bake. Watch your hands. That pot is 450°F.
5. Bake covered. Put the lid on and bake for 30 minutes.
6. Bake uncovered. Take the lid off and bake 10 to 15 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden brown. The inside should read 205°F to 210°F (96°C to 99°C).
7. Cool all the way. Move the loaf to a wire rack. Wait at least 2 hours before slicing. The crumb is still setting, and a warm slice turns gummy.

Tip: Slice it with a long serrated knife and cut the first slice thick. This crust has earned it.

Shaping Summary

A round loaf fits the Dutch oven and the banneton, and gives a miche its classic look.

Boule (Round Loaf) (recommended)

The traditional miche shape.

1. Pre-shape. Gather the dough into a loose round and rest it 15 minutes.
2. Final shape. Tighten it into a smooth round, building tension on the surface.
3. Seam up. Place it seam side up in a floured banneton.

Proof test: Press a floured finger gently into the dough. It should fill back in slowly. Fast spring-back means it needs more time.

Bake Day

Hot pot, covered first, uncovered to finish.

Oven: 230°C / 450°F. Internal temperature when done: 96-99°C / 205-210°F.

Dutch Oven (recommended)

Best results for home bakers.

Equipment: Dutch oven with lid, 6 quart or larger

1. Preheat. 450°F (230°C) with the pot inside, at least 45 minutes.
2. Score and load. Score the loaf and lower it in on its parchment sling.
3. Bake covered. 30 minutes with the lid on.
4. Bake uncovered. 10 to 15 minutes more, until deep golden brown.
5. Cool. On a wire rack, at least 2 hours.

Note: Don't skip the long cool. A big whole-grain loaf finishes cooking inside as it cools.

Storage

• Room temperature: 3 to 4 days in a paper bag, or cut side down on a board
• Refrigerated: Not recommended. It dries the crumb and speeds staling.
• Frozen: Sliced and frozen, up to 3 months

Toast frozen slices straight from the freezer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to mill my own flour?

No. Fresh whole wheat and whole rye flour from the store will work. Weigh them the same way. Fresh-milled just tastes sweeter and smells better.

My dough is wet and sticky. Should I add flour?

No. Whole grain dough starts slack and tightens as the bran soaks up water. Use wet hands, keep folding, and trust the process.

How do I know my stiff levain is ready?

It should be puffed and domed, with bubbles at the surface, and smell sweet and a little tangy. If it hasn't puffed after 16 hours, your kitchen is cool or your starter is sleepy. Give it a bit longer.

Can I skip the instant yeast?

You can, and it'll be a pure sourdough loaf. Expect a noticeably longer bulk fermentation. Go by the dough, not the clock: it should look airy and jiggle when you shake the bowl. Start with the yeast the first time so you know what the dough should feel like.

Can I use spelt or another ancient grain?

Try swapping the 129g of dough-stage whole wheat for freshly milled spelt. Spelt absorbs less water and its gluten is more delicate, so hold back about 20g of the dough water and add it only if the dough feels stiff. Handle it gently and watch the final proof closely.

Why is my crumb gummy?

Usually it's cut too soon or pulled from the oven early. Let it cool at least 2 hours and check that the inside reaches 205°F (96°C).

Nutrition

Per serving (1 slice (about 70g)): 150 calories, 32g carbohydrates, 5g protein, 1g fat, 4g fiber, 340mg sodium. Makes 15 servings.