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Fresh-Milled Einkorn Sourdough

Fresh-milled einkorn sourdough with optional spelt blend. Built for whole grain einkorn from local farmers and fresh-milled flour, with traditional dough conditioners for structure and shelf life.

By Henry Hunter, founder of Crust & Crumb Academy and Baking Great Bread at Home.

Prep
45 minutes active
Rise
5-7 hours
Bake
45 minutes
Total
18-20 hours
Yield
One 900g loaf, about 12 slices
Difficulty
intermediate
Hydration
75%

Ingredients

Einkorn Levain (build night before)

Adapt your starter to einkorn first. This levain uses 100% whole einkorn flour to fully transition the wild yeast.

  • 20g (1 tbsp) active sourdough starter
  • 60g (½ cup) whole einkorn flour, fresh-milled
  • 60g (¼ cup) filtered water, room temp

Final Dough

Use the 70/30 einkorn-spelt blend for better structure, or 100% einkorn for pure ancient grain flavor.

  • 350g (2¾ cups) whole einkorn flour, fresh-milled
  • 150g (1¼ cups) whole spelt flour (optional, see notes)
  • 375g (1½ cups + 2 tbsp) filtered water, warm (90F / 32C)
  • 140g (½ cup + 2 tbsp) active einkorn levain (from above)
  • 10g (2 tsp) fine sea salt
  • 1g (¼ tsp) vitamin C powder (ascorbic acid)
  • 15g (1 tbsp) sunflower lecithin (liquid preferred) — If you only have powdered sunflower lecithin, slurry it first by dissolving the powder into a small portion of the recipe's water before adding it to the wet ingredients. This prevents clumps from forming when you mix.
  • 15g (1 tbsp) honey (helps activate fermentation)

Total flour: 500g

Hydration: 75%

Pro tip: If you want pure einkorn flavor, use 500g whole einkorn and skip the spelt. Expect a denser, more crumbly loaf. The 70/30 blend is the best balance of flavor and structure for most bakers. Note on sunflower lecithin: liquid is preferred. If you only have powdered, slurry it first by dissolving the powder into a small portion of the recipe's water before adding it to the wet ingredients to prevent clumping.

Equipment

Method

Build the Einkorn Levain

The night before baking, build a 100% einkorn levain. This adapts your wild yeast to the substrate and gives you the strongest possible fermentation in a weak-gluten dough.

  1. Mix the levain. In a clean jar, combine the starter, einkorn flour, and water. Stir until smooth.
  2. Mark the level. Mark the side of the jar with tape or a rubber band so you can see the rise. Cover loosely and leave at room temp (70-75F / 21-24C) overnight, 8 to 12 hours.
  3. Check it in the morning. The levain is ready when it has risen by 50% to 75% (not doubled, einkorn fermentation is faster and the structure can't hold doubled volume). It should be bubbly, domed, and smell pleasantly sour. If it's already collapsed, build a fresh one and shorten the next overnight time.

Wait: PT10H

Tip: Einkorn levain peaks faster than bread flour levain, often in 5 to 8 hours instead of 8 to 12. Watch for double in size, domed top, and small bubbles throughout. The moment it begins to plateau is your window to mix. If your levain is hitting peak earlier than expected, drop your inoculation slightly on the next build (try 1:5:5 instead of 1:3:3 for overnight builds). If your kitchen runs cool, build the levain right before bed. If it runs warm, build it later in the evening or use slightly less starter (try 15g instead of 20g).

Fermentolyse

Combine the levain, flour, and water all at once. No salt yet. Mix until no dry flour remains, then cover and rest. This is fermentolyse — Henry's standard method across all sourdough recipes. The levain begins working during the rest, building flavor and starting gluten development at the same time. The salt comes in next, slowing fermentation just enough to give you a workable window for folds and shaping.

  1. Combine levain, flour, and water. Add the levain, flour, and water to your mixing bowl.
  2. Mix until shaggy. Mix by hand or with a dough whisk until no dry flour remains. The dough will look shaggy and rough. That's expected.
  3. Cover and rest. Cover and rest for 1 hour. No folds during this rest. Let the levain and flour do their work.

Wait: PT1H

Tip: Why fermentolyse instead of autolyse? Autolyse uses just flour and water and asks you to add levain and salt later in separate steps. Fermentolyse combines levain with the flour from the start, which gives you flavor development during the rest while still letting the flour hydrate fully. One less step, better dough.

Add the Salt

Pinch and fold the salt into the dough. This is when bulk fermentation truly begins. The salt slows the levain just enough to give you a manageable timeline and tightens the gluten for better structure.

  1. Sprinkle salt across the dough. Sprinkle the salt evenly across the top of the dough.
  2. Pinch and fold. Wet your hand and pinch the salt into the dough, working it through with a series of pinches and folds for 2 to 3 minutes.
  3. Begin bulk timing. The dough will feel stronger and smoother by the end. Cover and begin your bulk fermentation timing from here.

Bulk Fermentation with Coil Folds

Einkorn needs gentle handling and a careful eye. Watch the dough, not the clock. The whole bulk should take 5 to 7 hours at room temp (70-75F / 21-24C).

  1. First coil fold (after 30-min rest). With wet hands, lift the center of the dough straight up, letting the bottom fold under. Rotate the bowl 90 degrees and repeat 3 more times. The dough will feel slack and batter-like. That's normal.
  2. Second coil fold (45 minutes later). Repeat the coil fold. The dough should feel slightly tighter, with more visible bubbles forming. If it still feels exactly the same as the first fold, your kitchen may be cool, give it more time.
  3. Stop folding. Two coil folds is enough. More handling will tear the fragile gluten. Cover the bowl and let it rest until bulk is complete.
  4. Watch for the end of bulk. Bulk is done when the dough has increased in volume by 30% to 50% (not 100%, einkorn can't hold that). Look for visible bubbles on the surface, a domed top, and a soft jiggle when you nudge the bowl. This will take about 3 to 5 more hours after the last fold, depending on temperature.

Wait: PT5H

Tip: If your dough doubles in volume during bulk, it's overproofed. The loaf will still be edible but will be flatter and gummier. Next time, watch more carefully and pull the dough at 30-50% volume increase.

Shape and Cold Retard

Cold retard improves flavor and makes the dough easier to score. Einkorn handles cold retard well.

  1. Pre-shape. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Use a bench scraper to gently tuck the edges into the center, forming a loose round. Let it rest, seam-side down, for 20 minutes.
  2. Final shape. Flip the dough seam-side up. Stretch the bottom edge up and over to the center. Stretch the right side to the center, then the left side, then roll the top down to seal. You'll have a tight package with a smooth top. Place it seam-side up in a floured banneton.
  3. Cold retard overnight. Cover the banneton with a plastic bag or beeswax wrap and place it in the refrigerator. cold retard for 10 to 14 hours. The cold slows fermentation and develops complex flavor while the dough firms up enough to score cleanly. Maximum cold retard time is 14 hours. Going past 14 hours on einkorn risks exhausting the dough's gas reserves before bake day, which reduces oven spring. Einkorn ferments faster than modern wheat and does not benefit from extended cold retards the way bread flour doughs do.

Wait: PT12H

Bake the Loaf

Einkorn browns fast. Bake cooler than your usual sourdough and watch the color, not the timer.

  1. Preheat the Dutch oven. Place the dutch oven in the cold oven and preheat to 450F (230C) for 45 minutes. The Dutch oven needs to be fully heated before the dough goes in.
  2. Score and load. Take the dough out of the fridge. Tip it onto a parchment round, seam-side down. Score with one decisive slash about ½ inch (1cm) deep. Lift the dough by the parchment and lower it into the hot Dutch oven. Cover with the lid.
  3. Bake covered. Bake covered at 450F (230C) for 20 minutes. The lid traps steam, which helps the crust set and gives oven spring.
  4. Bake uncovered. Remove the lid and reduce the temperature to 425F (220C). Bake another 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is deep golden brown. Internal temp should reach 200F (93C). Don't push past that, einkorn over-bakes quickly.
  5. Cool fully. Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack. Let it cool completely, at least 1 hour, before slicing. Cutting hot einkorn bread destroys the crumb, more so than with modern wheat. Patience pays off.

Shape the Loaf

Einkorn dough is fragile. Use the gentlest possible shaping technique that still creates surface tension.

Round (Boule) (recommended)

The easiest shape for fragile doughs. The round form supports itself during cold retard and oven spring.

  1. Pre-shape into a loose round. Tuck the edges into the center using a bench scraper.
  2. Rest 20 minutes. Let the dough relax.
  3. Final shape. Flip seam-side up, fold edges to center, flip seam-side down, and place in a round banneton.

Oval (Batard)

Possible but harder with einkorn. The dough doesn't hold an elongated shape as cleanly.

  1. Pre-shape into a round. Same as boule.
  2. Rest 20 minutes. Let the dough relax.
  3. Final shape. Flip seam-side up, fold the top down, then roll into a log shape. Pinch the seam closed and place in an oval banneton.

Proof test: After cold retard, do a gentle poke test through the banneton. The dough should feel cool, firm, and slowly spring back when pressed. If it's still very soft, give it 30 more minutes at room temp before baking.

Bake

Lower temperatures and shorter bakes than modern wheat sourdough.

Oven: 230°C / 450°F. Internal temperature when done: 93°C / 200°F.

Dutch Oven (recommended)

The best method for einkorn. The trapped steam helps the fragile crust set and supports oven spring in a weak-gluten dough.

Equipment: Dutch oven with lid, parchment paper

  1. Preheat. Preheat Dutch oven in cold oven at 450F (230C) for 45 minutes.
  2. Score and load. Score the dough and lower it into the hot Dutch oven by the parchment.
  3. Bake covered. Bake at 450F (230C) covered for 20 minutes.
  4. Reduce and finish. Reduce to 425F (220C), uncover, and bake 20-25 more minutes until deep golden and 200F (93C) internal.

Baking Stone with Steam

Workable but harder to control than Dutch oven. Steam loss is the main risk.

Equipment: Baking stone, lava rocks or cast iron pan for steam, parchment paper

  1. Preheat. Preheat stone and steam pan at 450F (230C) for 45 minutes.
  2. Add steam. Pour 1 cup of hot water into the steam pan as you load the loaf.
  3. Bake with steam. Bake at 450F (230C) for 15 minutes with steam.
  4. Vent and finish. Remove the steam pan, reduce to 425F (220C), and bake 20-25 more minutes until done.

Note: Watch the color, not the timer. Einkorn browns fast and can go from perfect to over-baked in 5 minutes.

Storage

  • Room temperature: 1-2 days in a paper bag or wrapped in cloth. After day 2, toast it.
  • Refrigerated: Not recommended. Speeds staling.
  • Frozen: Up to 3 months. Slice the loaf the day it's baked and wrap individual slices in parchment.
  • Refresh: Toast slices at high heat or warm a whole loaf at 325F (165C) for 10 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my einkorn dough so wet and sticky?

That's normal. Einkorn dough is much wetter and slacker than modern wheat dough at the same hydration. Don't add more flour to fix the texture, you'll end up with a dense brick. Trust the recipe and use gentle handling. The dough comes together more during bulk fermentation than during mixing.

Can I skip the vitamin C and lecithin?

Yes, but expect a denser crumb and faster staling. These traditional dough conditioners aren't decoration, they're doing real structural work in a weak-gluten dough. If you're committed to leaving them out, use the 70/30 einkorn-spelt blend to compensate for some of the lost structure.

My loaf came out dense and gummy. What went wrong?

Most likely culprits, in order: under-fermented bulk (look for 30-50% volume increase, not just time on the clock), starter not yet adapted to einkorn (try one or two more einkorn-only feedings), or aggressive handling that tore the fragile gluten. Switch to gentle coil folds and watch the dough during bulk.

Can I use 100% einkorn instead of the 70/30 blend?

Yes, and it will have the purest einkorn flavor. Expect a denser, more crumbly loaf with shorter shelf life. If you want pure einkorn but better structure, increase the lecithin to 30g (2 tbsp) and the vitamin C stays the same. Eat it the day it's baked, toast it on day two.

Why does my loaf go stale so fast?

That's einkorn. The grain holds water loosely and gives it back to the air faster than modern wheat. The fix isn't a different recipe, it's a different storage strategy: slice and freeze the loaf the day you bake it, pull and toast slices as needed. You'll get all the einkorn flavor without the staleness.

Can I make this with commercial Jovial all-purpose einkorn instead of fresh-milled whole einkorn?

Yes, but reduce the water to about 65% hydration (around 325g of water for the same flour weight). Sifted commercial einkorn absorbs less water than whole grain. Everything else stays the same. The crumb will be lighter and the flavor more subtle.

My einkorn loaf had a moist crumb but less oven spring than I expected. What happened?

Two common causes. First, if your cold retard ran past 14 hours, the dough exhausted its gas reserves before baking. Einkorn ferments faster than modern wheat and does not need long cold retards. Keep it to 10 to 14 hours maximum. Second, if your levain peaked earlier than expected and you mixed past its prime window, the dough started bulk with weaker leavening power. Watch your levain closely and mix the moment it hits peak.

What is fermentolyse and why use it instead of autolyse?

Fermentolyse combines the levain with flour and water at the start of mixing, then rests the dough before adding salt. Traditional autolyse uses only flour and water in the rest, with the levain coming later. Fermentolyse gives you flavor development during the rest period while still hydrating the flour fully, and it eliminates an extra mixing step. This is the standard method used across all sourdough recipes in the Crust & Crumb Recipe Pantry.

Nutrition

Per serving (1 slice (75g)): 180 calories, 32g carbohydrates, 7g protein, 2g fat, 5g fiber, 320mg sodium. Makes 12 servings.