Einkorn & Spelt Maple Cinnamon Rolls

Ingredients

Tangzhong

A cooked flour paste that keeps whole grain rolls soft

• 36g (⅓ cup) fresh-milled spelt flour
• 180g (¾ cup) whole milk

Dough

• 300g (2¾ cups) fresh-milled spelt flour
• 144g (1¼ cups) fresh-milled einkorn flour
• 90g (6 tbsp) whole milk, lukewarm
• 50g (1 large) large egg, room temperature
• 50g (¼ cup) cane sugar
• 60g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened
• 6g (1 tsp) fine sea salt
• 7g (2¼ tsp) instant yeast

Cinnamon Filling

• 56g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter, very soft
• 130g (⅔ cup) dark brown sugar, packed
• 14g (2 tbsp) ground cinnamon
• 1g (¼ tsp) ground cardamom
• 1g (⅛ tsp) fine sea salt

Maple Cream Cheese Frosting

• 115g (4 oz (½ cup)) cream cheese, softened
• 28g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened
• 40g (2 tbsp) pure maple syrup
• 60g (½ cup) powdered sugar
• 4g (1 tsp) vanilla extract
• 1g (⅛ tsp) fine sea salt

Pan

• 10g (2 tsp) unsalted butter, for the pan

Total flour: 480g

Hydration: 67%

Pro tip: Weigh everything. Spelt and einkorn flour pack very differently, so cups are only a rough guide.

Equipment

Method

Mill the Flour

Mill both grains fresh and let them cool.

1. Mill and cool. Mill about 345g spelt berries and 150g einkorn berries on a medium-fine setting. Spread the flour in a wide bowl and let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Weigh out what you need.

Tip: Einkorn flour is yellow and soft. Spelt is fluffy and pale. Weigh both.

Make the Tangzhong

Cook a little flour and milk into a pudding. It holds water, and that keeps the rolls soft for days.

1. Cook the paste. Whisk the spelt flour and milk together in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Keep whisking for 3 to 4 minutes, until it thickens like pudding and the whisk leaves lines. That's a tangzhong, and it should read about 149°F (65°C).
2. Cool the paste. Scrape it into a bowl, press plastic wrap against the surface, and cool for 15 minutes until lukewarm.

Mix and Knead

Mix, rest, then knead in the butter.

1. Mix and rest. In your mixer bowl, combine the tangzhong, milk, egg, sugar, and yeast. Add the spelt flour, einkorn flour, and salt. Mix on low for 2 minutes until no dry flour is left, then cover and rest for 20 minutes.
2. Knead in the butter. With the mixer on medium-low, add the soft butter in three pieces, letting each disappear before the next. Knead 8 to 10 minutes total, until the dough is smooth, soft, and tacky. A small piece should stretch into a thin windowpane, though it may tear sooner than a white-flour dough would. Einkorn gluten is weak and stretchy, so stop when it's smooth and don't add extra flour.

Tip: This is a soft enriched dough. If it feels sticky, wait. The flour is still drinking.

First Rise

Let the dough puff up until it looks airy and jiggly.

1. Ferment. Move the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let it rise at 76 to 78°F (24 to 26°C) for 60 to 90 minutes. The bulk fermentation is done when the dough is about 50 percent bigger, puffy, and jiggles when you shake the bowl.

Wait: PT1H15M

Fill and Roll

A paste filling stays put and keeps the swirl tight.

1. Make the filling. Mash the very soft butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt together with a fork until it's a spreadable paste.
2. Roll out the dough. Grease a 9x13 inch (23x33 cm) metal pan with the pan butter. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter and roll it into a rectangle about 12 x 18 inches (30 x 46 cm), long side facing you.
3. Spread and roll. Spread the filling over the dough, leaving a 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) bare border along the far long edge. Roll up tightly from the long edge toward the border and pinch the seam closed.
4. Cut and pan. Cut the log into 12 equal rolls with unflavored dental floss or a sharp serrated knife. Set them cut side up in the pan, 3 rows of 4.

Tip: Make-ahead option: cover the pan tightly after cutting and refrigerate 8 to 14 hours. Next day, set it out for 45 to 60 minutes before baking.

Final Proof

Let the rolls puff until they touch.

1. Proof the rolls. Cover the pan and let the rolls proof for 45 to 60 minutes, until they look puffy, touch each other, and a floured fingertip leaves a dimple that fills back slowly. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) during the last 20 minutes.

Wait: PT50M

Bake the Rolls

Pull them when they're golden and cooked through.

1. Bake. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 24 to 28 minutes, until the tops are golden and the center roll reads 190°F (88°C). Tent loosely with foil after 15 minutes if the tops brown fast.
2. Cool briefly. Cool the pan on a rack for 10 minutes. You want the rolls warm, not hot, when the frosting goes on.

Frost and Serve

Warm rolls melt the frosting into every crack.

1. Make the frosting. Beat the cream cheese and butter until smooth. Beat in the maple syrup, powdered sugar, vanilla, and salt until creamy.
2. Frost. Spread the frosting over the warm rolls and serve right away.

Tip: Too warm and the frosting runs off. Too cool and it sits on top. Warm to the touch is right.

Roll and Cut

A tight roll and a clean cut keep the rolls from unwinding.

Classic Roll-and-Cut (recommended)

Same-day rolls

1. Roll. Roll the dough into a 12 x 18 inch rectangle, spread the filling, and roll tightly from the long edge.
2. Cut. Cut into 12 rolls and place in the pan, 3 rows of 4.

Overnight Make-Ahead

Bake fresh in the morning

1. Chill. After cutting and panning, cover tightly and refrigerate 8 to 14 hours.
2. Warm up. Set the pan out for 45 to 60 minutes, until the rolls look puffy, then bake as written.

Proof test: Press a floured fingertip into a roll. It should fill back slowly and leave a small dimple.

Bake the Rolls

A moderate oven cooks the center through before the sugar scorches.

Oven: 175°C / 350°F. Internal temperature when done: 88°C / 190°F.

Metal 9x13 Pan (Recommended) (recommended)

Even browning

Equipment: 9x13 inch metal baking pan

1. Bake. Bake 24 to 28 minutes at 350°F (175°C), tenting with foil after 15 minutes if needed.

Glass Baking Dish

Glass runs hotter

Equipment: 9x13 inch glass baking dish

1. Bake. Lower the oven to 325°F (165°C) and bake 28 to 32 minutes.

Note: The rolls keep cooking in the hot pan, so pull them the moment the center hits 190°F.

Storage

• Room temperature: Unfrosted rolls keep 2 days covered. Frosted rolls should sit out no more than 2 hours.
• Refrigerated: Frosted, up to 5 days, covered
• Frozen: Unfrosted, up to 3 months, wrapped individually
• Refresh: Warm a refrigerated roll for 15 to 20 seconds in the microwave. Thaw frozen rolls overnight, warm at 300°F (150°C) for 10 minutes, then frost.

Freeze the rolls unfrosted and make a fresh batch of frosting when you serve them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why use a tangzhong in a whole grain roll?

Whole grain flour is thirsty and can bake up dry. The cooked paste locks in water, so the rolls stay soft and tender for days.

Can I use store-bought whole grain flour instead of milling?

Yes. Use the same weights of whole grain spelt and einkorn flour. Hold back 10g of the milk and add it only if the dough feels stiff after the rest.

My rolls came out dense. What went wrong?

Usually too much flour added during rolling, or an under-proofed pan. Roll on a barely floured counter and wait until the rolls touch before baking.

Can I make these with all einkorn?

Not with this formula. Einkorn alone needs less liquid and a gentler knead. Keeping it at 30 percent gives you softness and a reliable rise.

Can I make them dairy-free?

Swap in unsweetened oat milk and plant butter, and use a plant-based cream cheese for the frosting. The rolls will be a little less rich.

Nutrition

Per serving (1 frosted roll): 360 calories, 52g carbohydrates, 7g protein, 15g fat, 4g fiber, 240mg sodium. Makes 12 servings.