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Brioche Bread

This isn't your average brioche. By combining traditional French technique with the Japanese tangzhong method, you get all the rich, buttery flavor of…

By Henry Hunter Jr., founder of Crust & Crumb Academy and Baking Great Bread at Home.

Prep
45 min
Rise
10-14 hrs
Bake
30-35 min
Total
12-16 hrs
Yield
Makes 1 large loaf (9x5 pan) or 12 rolls
Difficulty
intermediate

Ingredients

Tangzhong (Make First)

This cooked flour paste is the secret to brioche that stays soft for days

  • 25g (3 Tbsp) Bread flour
  • 75g (⅓ cup) Whole milk
  • 15g (1 Tbsp) Unsalted butter, cold

Dough

  • 330g (2⅔ cups) Bread flour
  • 50g (¼ cup) Granulated sugar
  • 7g (2¼ tsp) Instant yeast (SAF Gold recommended)
  • 7g (1¼ tsp) Fine sea salt
  • 60g (¼ cup) Whole milk, cold
  • 150g (3 large) (3 large) Large eggs, cold
  • 160g (11 Tbsp (1 stick + 3 Tbsp)) Unsalted butter, cool room temp

Egg Wash & Finishing

  • 18g (1 yolk) (1 large) Egg yolk
  • 1 Tbsp (1 Tbsp) Heavy cream or milk
  • pinch (pinch) Flaky sea salt (optional)

Total flour: 355g (including tangzhong)

Hydration: 65%

Equipment

Method

Make the Tangzhong

This cooked flour paste is the secret to brioche that stays soft for days.

  1. Whisk together. In a small saucepan, whisk bread flour and milk until no lumps remain.
  2. Cook over medium-low heat. Stir constantly with a spatula or whisk. The mixture will thicken quickly.
  3. Watch for the right consistency. Continue stirring until it reaches 150°F (65°C) and resembles thick mashed potatoes.
  4. Remove and add butter. Take off heat immediately. Stir in cold butter until melted and incorporated.
  5. Cool completely. Transfer to a bowl. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin.

Tip: If your tangzhong gets lumpy, push it through a fine mesh strainer.

Mix the Dough (Pre-Butter)

Building gluten strength BEFORE adding butter is the most important technique in brioche.

  1. Combine wet ingredients. In the bowl of a stand mixer, add cooled tangzhong, cold milk, and cold eggs.
  2. Add dry ingredients. Add bread flour, sugar, and yeast. Place salt on the opposite side from the yeast.
  3. Mix on low. Attach dough hook. Mix on speed 1-2 for 2 minutes until a shaggy dough forms.
  4. Knead. Increase to speed 3-4 and knead for 8-10 minutes until smooth and elastic.
  5. CHECKPOINT - Windowpane test. Stretch dough thin enough to see light through without tearing.

Tip: Do NOT skip the windowpane test. This checkpoint is non-negotiable.

Add Butter (The Critical Step)

Butter temperature is everything. You want 'pliable but cool.'

  1. Check your butter. It should give slightly when pressed but still feel cool. Think 'Play-Doh consistency.'
  2. Add butter one piece at a time. With mixer on speed 2, add one piece at a time. Wait until mostly absorbed before adding the next.
  3. Keep mixing. Once all butter is in, increase to speed 3-4 and mix for another 5-7 minutes.
  4. Final check. Dough should be smooth, shiny, and slightly tacky.

Tip: If butter starts leaking out, STOP. Refrigerate remaining butter for 10 minutes, then continue.

Initial Rise

A short room temperature rise before the overnight cold retard.

  1. Transfer to a clean bowl. Move to a large, lightly greased bowl.
  2. Cover and rise. Let rise until puffy and increased by about 50% (not fully doubled).
  3. Deflate gently. Press down to release large gas bubbles.

Tip: Brioche doesn't need to double at this stage.

Cold Retard (Overnight)

The overnight refrigeration is mandatory. It develops flavor and firms the butter for easier shaping.

  1. Cover and refrigerate. Place in the coldest part of your refrigerator for 8-24 hours.

Wait: 8-24 hours

Tip: Plan your baking. Mix dough in the evening, shape and bake the next morning.

Shape the Dough

Cold dough shapes beautifully. Work quickly so butter doesn't warm up.

  1. Prep your pan. Grease a 9x5 inch loaf pan generously with butter.
  2. Divide into 8 pieces. Cut dough into 8 equal pieces (about 95g each).
  3. Shape into balls. Roll in a circular motion to form tight balls. Pinch bottom seam closed.
  4. Arrange in pan. Place 4 balls in a row, then 4 balls on top in a staggered pattern.

Tip: If dough starts getting sticky, return it to the fridge for 10-15 minutes.

Final Proof

This is a slow rise because the dough is cold. Be patient.

  1. Cover and proof. Let rise until doubled and puffy. At 75°F this takes 2-2.5 hours.
  2. Poke test. If the indent springs back slowly but doesn't fill in completely, it's ready.
  3. Preheat oven. Start preheating to 350°F about 30 minutes before ready.

Tip: When in doubt, bake a bit early rather than late. Over-proofed brioche collapses.

Bake & Finish

Brioche browns quickly. Watch carefully and tent with foil if needed.

  1. Apply egg wash. Whisk egg yolk with cream. Apply gently with a pastry brush.
  2. Bake at 350°F. Bake for 30-35 minutes. Tent with foil if browning too quickly.
  3. Check doneness. Internal temperature should reach 190-195°F.
  4. Cool. Rest 5-10 minutes in pan, then cool on a wire rack.

Tip: Use a thermometer. 190°F minimum, or you'll have gummy bread.

Shape Your Brioche

This is where you decide what your brioche becomes. The dough is the same. The shape is your call. Pull it straight from the fridge while it's cold and firm, because cold brioche is far easier to handle than warm. Lightly flour your surface, divide, and shape. Here are five ways to go.

Bubble-Top Loaf (9x5 pan) (recommended)

The classic look. A row of rounds that bake together into soft, pull-apart humps across the top.

  1. Grease the pan. Butter a 9x5 inch loaf pan well, bottom and sides.
  2. Divide. Cut the cold dough into 8 equal pieces, about 95g each. A scale keeps them even, and even pieces rise even.
  3. Round each piece. Cup your hand over a piece and roll it in small circles against the counter until you feel a tight, smooth ball. Pinch the seam closed underneath.
  4. Stagger in the pan. Set 4 balls in a row down the pan, then nestle the other 4 on top in the gaps, staggered like a brick wall. That's what gives you the bubble tops.

Pullman Loaf (flat-top sandwich loaf)

A square, tight-crumbed sandwich loaf. Bake with the lid on for that signature flat top, or leave it off for a gentle dome.

  1. Grease the Pullman pan. Butter a 9x4 or 13x4 Pullman pan, including the underside of the lid if you're using it.
  2. Shape a log. Pat the cold dough into a rough rectangle about the length of your pan. Roll it up tight from the short end, sealing as you go, and pinch the final seam.
  3. Settle it seam-down. Lay the log seam-side down in the pan. For a smaller pan, divide into 2 or 3 pieces, round them, and line them up instead.
  4. Decide on the lid. Lid on gives you a flat, even sandwich loaf. Slide the lid most of the way closed for the proof, then close it fully just before baking. Watch it the first time so the dough doesn't push the lid open.

Classic Single Loaf

One smooth log in a standard pan. Simple, tall, and great for slicing.

  1. Grease the pan. Butter a 9x5 inch loaf pan.
  2. Shape one log. Pat the cold dough into a rectangle about as wide as your pan is long. Roll it up snug, pinch the seam, and tuck the ends under.
  3. Place seam-down. Set the log seam-side down in the pan and press the corners gently so it fills the pan evenly.

Dinner Rolls

Soft pull-apart rolls for the table. Makes about 12.

  1. Grease the pan. Butter a 9x9 square pan or a round cake pan.
  2. Divide. Cut the cold dough into 12 equal pieces, about 60 to 65g each.
  3. Round each one. Roll each piece into a tight ball with the cupped-hand motion. Pinch the seam underneath.
  4. Arrange with room to grow. Set the balls in the pan with a little space between them. They'll touch as they proof and bake, and that's what makes them pull apart.

Hamburger Buns

Sturdy, soft buns built for a burger. Makes about 6 to 8.

  1. Line a sheet pan. Line a baking sheet with parchment.
  2. Divide. Cut the cold dough into 6 to 8 pieces, about 95 to 125g each depending on how big you want them.
  3. Round, then flatten. Shape each into a tight ball, then press gently with your palm to flatten into a thick disc about 4 inches across.
  4. Space them out. Set them on the sheet with room between them, since they spread as they proof. For taller, rounder buns, proof them inside greased metal rings.

Proof test: However you shape it, the final proof is the same. Cover loosely and let it rise until doubled and puffy, about 2 to 2.5 hours at 75F (24C). Then do the poke test: press a floured finger gently into the dough. If the dent springs back slowly but doesn't fill in all the way, it's ready to bake. If it springs back fast, give it more time. If it doesn't spring back at all, get it in the oven now.

Baking

Brioche browns quickly due to high sugar and egg content

Oven: 175°C / 350°F. Internal temperature when done: 88-90°C°C / 190-195°F°F.

Storage

  • Room temperature: 3-4 days in an airtight container (thanks to tangzhong!)
  • Frozen: Up to 3 months. Slice before freezing for easy thawing.

Refrigerator storage is not recommended as it accelerates staling. Reheat at 300°F for 5-10 minutes to refresh.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use all-purpose flour?

Yes, but bread flour gives better structure. If using AP flour, expect a slightly softer, less chewy texture.

My dough is greasy and won't come together. What happened?

Your butter was too warm, or you didn't develop enough gluten before adding butter. Make sure dough passes windowpane test BEFORE adding butter.

Can I make this by hand without a stand mixer?

Technically yes, but it's extremely difficult. Hand-kneading brioche takes 25-30 minutes of intense work. A stand mixer is strongly recommended.

Can I skip the overnight cold retard?

You can, but the bread won't be as good. Warm dough is nearly impossible to shape properly. If pressed for time, refrigerate at least 4 hours.

How do I know if my butter is the right temperature?

Press it with your finger. It should give slightly (like Play-Doh) but still feel cool. If it's soft and squishy, it's too warm.

Why do you recommend SAF Gold yeast?

It's osmotolerant, meaning it performs better in high-sugar doughs. Regular instant yeast works but may rise more slowly.

Nutrition

Per serving (1 slice (about 70g)): 285 calories, 28g carbohydrates, 6g protein, 16g fat, 1g fiber, 180mg sodium. Makes 12 servings.