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Bremer Klaben

Bremer Klaben, the North German Christmas bread: rum-soaked raisins, candied peel, and cardamom in a rich yeasted dough. No icing, no butter bath.

By Henry Hunter Jr., founder of Crust & Crumb Academy and Baking Great Bread at Home.

Prep
1 hour (bake day)
Bake
75-90 minutes
Total
3-12 weeks from first soak to first slice
Yield
One large loaf, about 1.5 kg (20 thick slices)
Difficulty
intermediate
Hydration
40%

Ingredients

Rum Fruit Soak (start in September)

  • 300g (2 cups) Raisins
  • 200g (1 1/3 cups) Sultanas (golden raisins)
  • 80ml (1/3 cup) Dark rum

Dough (bake day)

  • 500g (4 cups) Bread flour 100%
  • 200ml (3/4 cup + 1 1/2 tbsp) Whole milk, lukewarm 40%
  • 125g (1/2 cup + 1 tbsp) Unsalted butter, softened 25%
  • 60g (1/4 cup + 1 tbsp) Granulated sugar 12%
  • 10g (1 tbsp) Instant yeast 2%
  • 9g (1 3/4 tsp) Fine sea salt 1.8%
  • 4g (2 tsp) Ground cardamom 0.8%
  • 1 tbsp (1 tbsp) Lemon zest

Candied Peel and Tossing Flour

  • 100g (1/2 cup) Candied orange peel, diced
  • 100g (1/2 cup) Candied lemon peel, diced
  • 15g (2 tbsp) Bread flour, for tossing the fruit

Equipment

Method

Start the Rum Soak (September) (Two weeks minimum, ten is fine)

In Bremen they'll tell you the fruit matters more than the dough, and the ratio backs them up: this loaf carries roughly its own weight in fruit. A long rum soak turns 500g of raisins and sultanas from decoration into the whole point.

  1. Jar the fruit and rum. Combine the raisins and sultanas in a clean 1 quart jar. Pour the rum over, lid it, and turn the jar over a few times until everything glistens. It looks like too little rum. It isn't. The fruit drinks nearly all of it over the first week, which is exactly what you want, plump fruit rather than wet fruit.
  2. Turn the jar weekly. Store the jar in a cool, dark cupboard and turn it over once a week so the bottom fruit doesn't hog the rum. Set a repeating phone reminder. The soak needs two weeks minimum and holds for ten, so a September start covers a November or December bake with room to spare.

Wait: P14D

Tip: The candied peel doesn't need to soak. It's already preserved in sugar and would just shed syrup into the jar. It joins on bake day.

Mix the Dough (Bake Day) (Rich, stiff, and strong)

This is a stiff enriched dough, 40 percent hydration plus a quarter of its flour weight in butter. It has to be strong enough to carry 700g of fruit without collapsing, so we build real gluten before the fruit ever shows up.

  1. Combine and knead. Whisk the flour, sugar, yeast, cardamom, and salt in the mixer bowl. Add the lukewarm milk and lemon zest and mix on low until a stiff, shaggy dough forms, 2 to 3 minutes. It'll look dry compared to most doughs you've made. Trust it, the butter is coming.
  2. Work in the butter. Add the softened butter in three additions, kneading on medium until each is absorbed before the next goes in. Then keep the machine running 8 to 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, supple, and pulls a decent windowpane test. This is a heavy dough that will make a small mixer groan, which is why I put the Bosch on the equipment list.
  3. First rise. Round the dough, drop it into a lightly buttered bowl, and cover. Let it rise until noticeably puffed but not doubled, 1 1/2 to 2 hours at 75-78°F. Rich, stiff doughs rise slowly, and a cold kitchen in November slows them further. A folding proofer set to 78°F takes the guesswork out.

Wait: PT1H45M

Work in the Fruit (The Klaben ratio)

Here's what makes Klaben Klaben: the fruit going in weighs about as much as the dough it's going into. This step feels wrong the first time. Keep going.

  1. Drain and dry the fruit. Tip the soaked fruit into a sieve over a bowl. If any rum drains off, drink it or save it, but there usually isn't much left after a long soak. Pat the fruit dry with paper towels. Wet fruit tears the dough and creates gummy pockets around each raisin.
  2. Toss with flour. Toss the drained fruit and both candied peels with the 15g of flour until every piece is lightly coated. The flour gives the dough something to grip so the fruit stays distributed instead of sliding to the bottom of the loaf.
  3. Fold and press the fruit in. Press the risen dough into a rough 12x16 inch rectangle on a lightly floured bench. Scatter half the fruit over it, fold the dough over itself with your bench knife, press flat again, add the rest, and fold again. Then knead gently by hand 2 to 3 minutes until the fruit is even throughout. Some raisins will pop out. Poke them back in and keep going.
  4. Rest. Cover the dough on the bench and give it 20 minutes. The gluten just took a beating from all those fruit edges and needs to relax before shaping.

Shape and Final Proof (One big rectangular loaf)

Traditional Klaben is a long rectangular loaf, baked free-standing on a sheet, no pan. Dense with fruit, it won't rise dramatically. That's normal.

  1. Shape the loaf. Pat the dough into a rectangle about 9x13 inches, then fold the long sides to the middle and roll it seam-side down into a fat log about 12 inches long and 5 inches wide. Pinch the ends and tuck them under. You want a tight, even shape because this loaf holds whatever form it proofs in.
  2. Final proof. Set the loaf on a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover loosely, and proof 60 to 90 minutes at 75-78°F until it looks pillowy and has grown by about a third. Press a floured finger gently into the side: the dent should fill back slowly. A fruit-heavy dough never doubles, so don't wait for it.

Wait: PT1H15M

Tip: Check the top for exposed raisins and push them just under the surface. Any fruit sitting proud of the dough will scorch during the long bake.

Wrap and Mature (After Baking) (One to two weeks of patience)

Fresh from the oven, Klaben is good. After a week wrapped, it's a different loaf. The rum and citrus migrate through the crumb, the cardamom rounds out, and the texture settles from bread into something closer to Bremen's idea of Christmas.

  1. Cool completely, then wrap. Cool the loaf on a rack until it's fully at room temperature, at least 4 hours and honestly better overnight. Then wrap it snugly in parchment, then foil, and store it in a cool room. No cheesecloth, no feeding, no sugar. Klaben matures dry and stands on its own.
  2. Wait one to two weeks. Leave it alone for 7 days minimum, 14 if you can manage it. Bake in late November or the first days of December and it lands in its prime for Christmas week. This is also your gifting window: a wrapped, maturing Klaben travels beautifully.

Wait: P7D

Tip: Slice thick, 3/4 inch at least, and eat it with butter and strong coffee. In Bremen it shows up at breakfast all through Advent.

Shaping the Klaben

One large free-standing rectangular loaf is traditional. A pan loaf works if you want cleaner slices for gifting.

Free-Standing Rectangular Loaf (recommended)

The traditional Bremen shape: a fat, even log baked right on the sheet pan.

  1. Fold and roll. Fold the long sides of your dough rectangle to the middle, then roll into a tight log about 12x5 inches, seam down.
  2. Seal and tuck. Pinch the seam and both ends closed, tuck the ends under, and square up the sides with your bench knife so the loaf bakes even.

Pan Loaf

Bake in a large 10x5 inch pullman or loaf pan for straight-sided slices.

  1. Shape to fit. Roll the log to the length of your pan and drop it in seam down. Press gently into the corners.
  2. Watch the bake. A pan shields the sides, so add 5 to 10 minutes to the bake and confirm 190°F (88°C) in the center before pulling it.

Proof test: Press a floured finger into the side. Slow spring-back with a slight dent remaining means it's ready. This dense dough will never pass the poke test a lean loaf would, so read it gently.

Long, Slow Bake

A 1.5 kilo loaf packed with sugared fruit needs moderate heat and time. Too hot and the outside burns while the center stays doughy. Klaben's crust should be deep chestnut brown, not black.

Oven: 165°C / 325°F. Internal temperature when done: 88°C / 190°F.

Sheet Pan, Free-Standing (recommended)

The traditional method for the free-form loaf.

Equipment: Large sheet pan,Parchment paper

  1. Bake. Bake at 325°F (165°C) on a middle rack for 75 to 90 minutes. The loaf is done at 190°F (88°C) in the center and should sound quietly solid when tapped on the bottom.
  2. Tent at 40 minutes. Check at 40 minutes and tent loosely with foil once the crust is a deep golden brown. With this much fruit sugar, the surface will keep darkening for the rest of the bake if you let it.
  3. Cool completely. Move to a rack and resist slicing. The crumb keeps setting for hours, and cutting warm Klaben gums the knife and wastes your maturing head start. Remember: no butter brushing, no powdered sugar. This isn't stollen.

Note: Doneness is 190°F (88°C) internal. With 700g of fruit inside, visual cues lie, so use the thermometer.

Storage

  • Room temperature: Wrapped in parchment and foil in a cool room: 3-4 weeks, including the 1-2 week maturing period. After cutting, press parchment against the cut face and rewrap.
  • Refrigerated: Skip the fridge. It stales the crumb faster than the counter does.
  • Frozen: Up to 3 months, whole or in thick slices, double wrapped. Thaw wrapped at room temperature overnight.

For gifting, wrap the matured loaf in fresh parchment, tie it with twine, and write the bake date and 'best from' date on the tag. A Klaben gifted mid-maturing, with instructions to wait, is a very Bremen kind of present.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this just stollen without the sugar coating?

Bremen would like a word. Klaben predates the modern stollen ritual and skips the butter bath, powdered sugar, and marzipan entirely. It carries more fruit per gram of dough, leans on cardamom, and gets its keeping quality from the fruit and long bake rather than a sugar shell.

I missed September. What's the minimum soak?

Two weeks gets you a proper Klaben, so a late November start still makes Christmas. In a genuine pinch, soak the fruit in warmed rum overnight, but the deep, rounded fruit flavor of the long soak is the reason this recipe publishes in September.

My dough won't rise. Is it dead?

Probably just slow. This dough is 40 percent hydration with 25 percent butter and 12 percent sugar, all of which drag on yeast. At 68°F it can take 3 hours to show life. Warm it to 78°F and be patient. If nothing has happened after 4 hours, check your yeast's expiration date.

Can I make this with sourdough?

Yes, with commitment. Swap the instant yeast for 150g of stiff, active sourdough starter, reduce the flour by 90g and milk by 60ml, and expect each rise to take 3 to 4 times longer. If you don't keep a starter yet, our sourdough-starter-from-scratch guide will have one ready long before your fruit finishes soaking.

The bottom of my loaf is nearly black. What happened?

Fruit sugar and a long bake, meeting a thin sheet pan. Double up two sheet pans or slide a baking steel on the rack below to soften the bottom heat. A shade of very dark brown on the base is traditional, though. This is a dark-crusted bread.

Do I really have to wait 1-2 weeks before eating it?

Have to? No, and you should absolutely try a warm heel slice on bake day as a baker's tax. But side by side, a two week Klaben beats a fresh one every time. The crumb turns dense and moist, and the rum stops tasting like an ingredient and starts tasting like the bread.

Nutrition

Per serving (1 thick slice (about 78g)): 270 calories, 47g carbohydrates, 5g protein, 7g fat, 2g fiber, 185mg sodium. Makes 20 servings.