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Accordion Pull-Apart Loaf
A soft milk bread rolled with filling, cut, stacked, and accordion-folded so every slice pulls apart in sheets. Pick your filling.
By Henry Hunter Jr., founder of Crust & Crumb Academy and Baking Great Bread at Home.
- Prep
- 45 minutes
- Rise
- 2-2.5 hours total
- Bake
- 35-40 minutes
- Total
- 4-4.5 hours
- Yield
- One 9x5 inch loaf, about 12 pull-apart slices
- Difficulty
- intermediate
- Hydration
- 62%
Ingredients
Dough
A soft, slightly sweet milk dough. Nothing fancy. The shaping does the showing off.
- 350g (2¾ cups + 2 tbsp) bread flour
- 200g (¾ cup + 2 tbsp) whole milk, warm (100-110°F)
- 40g (3 tbsp) granulated sugar
- 50g (1 large) large egg
- 6g (2 tsp) instant yeast
- 7g (1¼ tsp) fine sea salt
- 45g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened
Cinnamon Brown Sugar Filling (default)
The most accessible filling. Every pantry has this. See the filling variations in the Make the Filling phase to swap in coconut, almond, pistachio, pecan, or chocolate.
- 85g (6 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened
- 100g (½ cup) light brown sugar, packed
- 16g (2 tbsp) ground cinnamon
- 16g (2 tbsp) all-purpose flour
- 1g (¼ tsp) fine sea salt
Egg Wash
- 50g (1 large) large egg
- 15g (1 tbsp) whole milk
Total flour: 350g
Hydration: 62%
Pro tip: The flour in the cinnamon filling is not optional. It keeps the sugar from melting into syrup and flooding out the cut edges.
Equipment
Method
Mix and Knead the Dough (About 15 minutes)
Build a smooth, elastic enriched dough. Butter goes in last so the gluten forms first.
- Combine the Base. In a stand mixer bowl or large mixing bowl, combine the warm milk, sugar, egg, and instant yeast. Add the bread flour and salt on top. Mix on low until no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes.
- Knead, Then Add Butter. Knead on medium for 5 minutes until the dough comes together and smooths out. Add the softened butter one tablespoon at a time, letting each addition work in before the next. Knead 5-7 more minutes until the dough passes the windowpane test.
Tip: By hand this takes 15-18 minutes. The dough will feel greasy when the butter first goes in. Keep going. It comes back together.
Bulk Fermentation (60-90 minutes)
Let the dough double in a lightly greased, covered bowl.
- First Rise. Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a lightly greased bowl, cover, and let it rise in a warm spot until doubled, 60-90 minutes. While it rises, make your filling.
Wait: PT1H15M
Tip: Warm kitchen, 75 minutes. Cool kitchen, closer to 90. Judge by size, not the clock.
Make the Filling (During the first rise)
Whichever flavor you pick, the target is the same: a spreadable paste that holds a ridge when you drag a spatula through it. Paste, not sauce.
- Mix the Filling. Cream the softened butter with the brown sugar until combined. Mix in the cinnamon, flour, and salt until you have a thick, even paste.
- Chill It. Refrigerate the filling 20 minutes while the dough finishes rising. Cold filling stays put when you roll. Warm filling slides out the ends and welds your layers together.
Tip: Filling too stiff to spread after chilling? Let it sit at room temperature 5 minutes. Do not microwave it.
Roll Out, Fill, and Roll Up (About 10 minutes)
Degas, roll to a rectangle, spread the filling, and roll into a tight log.
- Roll to a Rectangle. Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface and press out the gas with your palm. Roll it into a 10x14 inch (25x35 cm) rectangle, squaring the edges as you go. Even thickness matters more than perfect corners.
- Spread the Filling. Spread the chilled filling over the lower two-thirds of the rectangle, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border on all sides. Do not spread to the edges. Filling at the edge leaks, the seam will not seal, and the layers glue into one solid block.
- Roll and Seal. Starting from the filled short end, roll the dough into a tight log. Pinch the seam closed along the full length and set the log seam-side down.
Tip: A bench scraper squares the edges of your rectangle faster than a rolling pin ever will.
Flatten, Cut, Stack, and Fold (The signature move)
This is what turns a swirl into standing sheets. Take it slow the first time.
- Flatten and Chill. Press the log flat with your palm until it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Chill the flattened log 15 minutes. Firm filling cuts clean. Soft filling smears across the blade and seals the layers back together.
- Cut, But Leave the Hinge. With a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut the flattened log in half lengthwise, stopping 1 inch (2.5 cm) short of the far end so the two halves stay hinged together. Do not cut all the way through. The hinge is what holds the stack when you fold.
- Stack and Repeat. Open the cut and lay the halves cut-side up. Stack one half on top of the other, layers facing the same direction. Press gently, flatten slightly, and make one more lengthwise cut with the same 1-inch hinge.
- Accordion Fold. Fold the stacked strips back and forth on themselves like an accordion, keeping the cut layers facing the same direction. You will end up with a compact block roughly the length of your pan.
Tip: If a strip tears free at the hinge, do not panic. Tuck it into the fold with the layers facing the same way. The proof and the bake hide small sins.
Pan and Final Proof (45-60 minutes)
Into the pan cut-side up, then a full final proof.
- Pan It. Place the folded block into a greased or parchment-lined 9x5 inch loaf pan with the cut layers facing up. It will look loose and a little wild. That is correct.
- Final Proof. Cover loosely and proof in a warm spot 45-60 minutes, until the dough fills the pan and springs back slowly when pressed with a floured finger.
Wait: PT50M
Tip: Start your oven preheating at the 30-minute mark of the proof.
Wash and Bake (35-40 minutes)
Egg wash for shine, then a moderate bake so the layers cook through before the top burns.
- Egg Wash. Whisk the egg with the milk and brush it gently over the proofed loaf, getting into the ridges without deflating them.
- Bake. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 35-40 minutes, until deep golden and the internal temperature reads 190°F (88°C) at the center. If the top browns fast at 25 minutes, tent loosely with foil and finish the bake.
- Cool. Cool in the pan 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack. Give it 30 minutes before pulling it apart. The layers set as they cool.
Tip: Enriched doughs brown fast because of the sugar and egg. Trust the thermometer over the color.
The Accordion Shape
Roll, flatten, cut with a hinge, stack, fold. The cut layers always face up in the pan.
Accordion Fold (Recommended) (recommended)
The full cut-and-stack method for vertical pull-apart layers
- Flatten the Log. Press the filled log to 1 inch thick and chill 15 minutes.
- Cut with a Hinge. Slice lengthwise, stopping 1 inch from the end so the halves stay connected.
- Stack. Lay both halves cut-side up, stack them, and cut once more with a hinge.
- Fold. Accordion-fold into a block and pan it cut-side up.
Simple Swirl (Easier)
Skip the cutting. Roll the filled log to pan length and bake it seam-side down for a classic swirl loaf. Same recipe, less drama.
- Roll to Length. Roll the filled log until it matches your pan, place seam-side down, and proof as directed.
Proof test: Press with a floured finger. A slow spring-back means it is ready.
Bake to Temperature
Moderate heat cooks the layered center through before the enriched exterior over-browns.
Oven: 175°C / 350°F. Internal temperature when done: 88°C / 190°F.
Loaf Pan (Recommended) (recommended)
A 9x5 metal loaf pan gives the layers walls to climb
Equipment: 9x5 inch loaf pan
- Preheat. Preheat to 350°F (175°C) with a rack in the center.
- Bake. Bake 35-40 minutes to an internal temperature of 190°F (88°C).
- Tent if Needed. If the top is deep brown by 25 minutes, tent with foil and finish the bake.
- Cool. 10 minutes in the pan, 30 on a wire rack before serving.
Note: Trust the thermometer. Sugar and egg make this crust brown before the center is done.
Storage
- Room temperature: 2-3 days wrapped tightly or in a bread bag
- Refrigerated: Not recommended. It stales the crumb fast.
- Frozen: Up to 2 months, wrapped whole or pulled into sections
Warm at 300°F for 8-10 minutes to bring the layers back to just-baked softness
Frequently Asked Questions
My filling leaked out during the bake. What went wrong?
Two usual suspects. Either the filling was spread all the way to the edges so the seam never sealed, or it was too warm and loose when you rolled. Leave a 1-inch border and chill the filling before spreading.
I cut all the way through the log. Is it ruined?
No. Lay the loose strips cut-side up, stack them by hand, and fold as directed. The hinge makes folding easier but the loaf bakes fine either way. It just takes a gentler touch to move.
Why is the middle of my loaf gummy?
It came out early. All those filling layers slow the bake at the center. Pull it at 190°F (88°C) internal, not by color, and give it the full cooling time. The layers finish setting as it cools.
Can I use all-purpose flour for the dough?
Yes. Reduce the milk by about 15g (1 tablespoon) since all-purpose absorbs less. The crumb will be a touch softer and less chewy.
Can I swap the filling?
That is the whole point of this bake. Follow the filling template in the Make the Filling phase: equal weights butter, sugar, and a ground dry solid, bound with egg for nut fillings or flour for the cinnamon version. Coconut, almond, pistachio, pecan, and chocolate all work at 100g each. For the savory garlic-cheese version shown in the photos, see Going Savory in the same phase.
Can I make this the night before?
Yes. Shape it, pan it, cover tightly, and refrigerate up to 16 hours. Bake straight from the fridge, adding 5-10 minutes and watching the internal temperature.
Nutrition
Per serving (1 slice (about 75g)): 250 calories, 38g carbohydrates, 5g protein, 9g fat, 1g fiber, 235mg sodium. Makes 12 servings.